Showing posts with label bow fell. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bow fell. Show all posts

Friday, July 11, 2014

Crinkle Crags & Bowfell (via climbers traverse)


Date : 11th July 2014
Start/End : Old Dungeon Ghyll
Wainwrights : Crinkle Crags & Bowfell
Distance : 9.6 miles (15.5km)
Height Gained : 3600 feet (1097 meters)
Time Taken : a very leisurely 8.5 hours


The route : clockwise from Old Dungeon Ghyll

This is one of my favourite areas in Lakeland. The Great Langdale valley is delectable country and the Crinkle Crags ridge leading up to the pinnacle of Bowfell occupies prime position at its head. It had been a few years since I last did this route and at the time I rushed it due it impending bad weather and didn't really have time to savour the views. Today, however, the forecast was perfect and I had the company of my Dad, so no need to race. 

An Aerial 3D Fly-Through of the Route


This particular route from Stool End Farm up the Oxendale path and along Crinkle Crags to Bowfell has become increasingly popular since being featured in the Julia Bradbury 'Wainwright Walks' TV series. Our intended route, as did Julia's, also included the 'climbers traverse' path along the eastern face of Bowfell, which skirts its most impressive rock scenery. At least that was the plan. The route can be demanding for some and although my Dad managed to climb Ben Nevis, Snowdon & Scafell Pike in his 70th year last summer, he hadn't done any fell walking since. We therefore had options to bale out down the 'Band' after Crinkle Crags or to climb Bowfell via the less exposed tourist route directly from 3 Tarns. 

Looking up the Oxendale valley
Crinkle Crags from the bridge over Oxendale Beck

We set off in bright sunshine at 11am along the path to Stool End Farm and then headed up the Oxendale Valley. From the new wooden bridge (rebuilt in 2005 after a storm swept the old one away) the path heads steeply up towards Red Tarn. Height is gained rapidly in this first section and backward glances reveal a constantly changing perspective of the Langdale Pikes. 



The Langdale Pikes





Views over to Bowfell and Hells Gill
Views back from Brown Howe

 The path gains a distinctively red tinge as Red Tarn is approached due the abundance of haematite & red sandstone in this area. Once at Red Tarn the bulk of the days steep ascent is done and the route flattens off as it approaches the first Crinkle. 


Heading up the 'Red' Oxendale Path


Red Tarn


Crinkle Crags & Bowfell from Great Knott

A short diversion up to Great Knott is well worth the effort as from this vantage point the whole ridge can be seen in all its glory. From here the path is currently being improved by the 'fix the fells' team who today were busily grafting in the hot sun. Finally a short but steep section leads up to the summit of Crinkle 1. Here, for the first time, the Scafells come into view over the Eskdale valley. We had lunch here just off to the western side enjoying superb views right down the length of the Great Langdale valley. Wainwright describes the walk along Crinkle Crags as "the finest ridge mile in the Lake District" and a "fell walkers delight". It's easy to see why with steep drops down to plunging valleys on both sides and a constantly changing terrain underfoot.

Views of the Scafells from the summit of Crinkle 1


Our lunch spot looking down the Great Langdale valley


Looking back over Great Knott, Red Tarn & Pike O'Blisco towards Windermere


Crinkles 2 & 3 from Crinkle 1

The approach to Crinkle 2 (Long Top) reveals the famous 'Bad Step' which seemingly blocks the direct route up to the summit. It is essentially a large chockstone wedged at the top of a narrow 12 foot high gulley. The solution is a 'fairly' simple climb up the rock face on the right side, after which the summit is a 1 minute 'boulder stroll' away. My Dad didn't fancy this so he took the alternative path around to the left while I cautiously scrambled up.



The approach to 'Bad Step'


Bad Step looking 'Bad'

The summit of the second Crinkle represents the true summit of Crinkle Crags but I think the best views are from Crinkle 3 which imposes more abruptly than the others into Great Langdale giving the best perspective along the valley. 

Crinkle 2 summit panorama East


Crinkle 2 summit panorama West


Bowfell & and the remaining ridge walk from Crinkle 3


Great Langdale from Crinkle 3


The Scafell's from Crinkle 3

As the ridge walk continues its undulating course, Bowfell becomes more imposing with every step. A short detour to Shelter Crags (essentially the 6th Crinkle) shows it off best. 



Eying up a potential wild camping spot near Crinkle 5


Bowfell Links looking magnificent from near Shelter Crags

From 3 Tarns we had a rest stop & stamina check resulting in the decision to carry on up Bowfell via the climbers traverse route. This involves skirting 'off path' eastwards across the southern flank of Bowfell until the narrow winding path is picked up. Climbers traverse is essentially a rock climbers route to access the vertical crags of Bowfell Buttress, Flat Crags & Cambridge Crags. These towering rock faces represent Bowfells best bits and are largely hidden from view to walkers climbing up from the 'Band' and the typical route from 3 Tarns.

If you want to access climbers traverse from the Band then that route is described in detail here

Or climbers traverse in winter is described here


The early section of climbers traverse


The winding path heading towards Bowfell Buttress


Bowfell Buttress and Easy Gulley (doesn't look easy to me!)

The traverse clings to Bowfell's steep eastern flank passing right under these vertical walls of rock until a point is reached at the bottom centre of Cambridge Crag where a spring emerges from the rock face. It is here that Wainwright recommends stopping for a drink as "nothing better ever came out of a barrel or a bottle". It really is very invigorating and provides just the refreshment needed before tackling the steep route upwards from here.
 
The water spout, showing the way up along the boulder field

From this point a steep diagonal route is evident cutting backwards (leftwards as you look at Cambridge Crag) up a 'river of boulders'. This is the way up, which once followed, quite quickly reveals the lower part of Great Slab, an aptly named huge hunk of flat rock dominating the left side of the ascent. Route choice is now to either continue the scramble up the boulder field or walk up the calf burning angular rock face of Great Slab. Having tried both, I prefer the former as the use of hands can be quite reassuring on such an exposed area. 

The lower part of Great Slab


Tackling the steep ascent

The top of Great Slab is one of the best places to be in the fells. This classic view with the Langdale Pikes in the background is immortalised in Wainwright's ink drawing in book 4.




Walking with a companion today meant I could take advantage of them as photographer while I made my way over to pose similarly at the top.


Me looking tiny at the top of the Great Slab

From here it is a 2 minute wander over the boulder strewn summit until the top is reached. The summit panorama is outstanding as Bowfell occupies prime position at the head of 3 main valleys (Great Langdale, Eskdale & Langstrath). In fact only Great Gable, out of all the high Lakeland fells, is not fully visible. We were lucky to be up there in good weather today as usually, if there is a cloud to be seen in Cumbria, it is often perched stubbornly on Bowfell summit. For the record, its only a 30 minute climb from the water spout to the summit, but Oh! what a great 30 minutes!

Windermere peeping through the top of Great Slab


Bowfell summit view back over Crinkle Crags


The Scafells from Bowfell summit : Broad Stand looking very vertical from here!


The view north to Esk Pike


Views down the Eskdale valley


Views along Great Langdale


Bowfell summit panorama west


Bowfell summit panorama east


The obligatory summit selfie

We then headed down towards 3 Tarns and back along the Band. Exactly 2 hours later we were enjoying a well earned pint at the Old Dungeon Ghyll as the last light of day slid over the Langdale Pikes ending a fantastic day in the fells.

A last glance at one of the best views in the Lake District


Looking back towards Red Tarn & Pike O'Blisco


The 3 Tarns


Langdale Pikes from the top of the Band



Nearly down

Sunday, September 15, 2013

Favourite Fell Photos - so far ...

... with a strong emphasis on the Langdale Pikes & Bowfell, my favourite Lakeland mountains ...

 I have been looking back at a decade of photos from various Lake District walks and pondering whether it is worth putting these old trip reports up on the blog. I very quickly decided not to as most are day walks which countless others have done countless times. But there are a few reasonable pictures amongst the many mediocre ones and it seems a shame to have them sat on my hard drive gathering the proverbial dust. So I thought I would post a collection of my favourite photos from many different walks, a gallery of my best photography efforts I suppose.

 To put things into context I must state for the record that I am very much a point & shoot photographer and only carry a compact camera. I have a working knowledge of the basic theory of photography but a woefully limited ability to put that knowledge into practice. If I'm being honest with myself, I think it boils down to a lack of patience. For this reason I will never have the skills or artistic flair for 'proper' landscape photography. For an appreciation of just what can be achieved with such skills I refer you to  jameslomax.com , stewartsmithphotography.co.uk, wastwaterphotography.co.uk and alexatkinsonphotography.co.uk

 My own efforts are very much secondary to the walk and serve to provoke memories and capture the views which I find inspiring. I tend not to let the camera guide the walk too much although admittedly, with increasing regularity, I'm finding myself loitering on fell tops waiting for the light to get just that little bit better.  I'm not kidding myself though. The good ones have largely been a series of lucky flukes or through just being in the right place at the right time. Wild camping in the Lake District has certainly helped with the latter as the first and last hours of the day really bring out the best of the fells and it is hard not to capture at least some of this splendour with a half decent camera and a vague idea of where to point it. And so here are a selection of my favourite flukes of my favourite fells.

 First up are the Langdale Pikes. As with most folk who spend time in the Lakes, I never tire of looking at their iconic profile. Wherever I am in the lakes, from whatever fell top, I always tend to survey the skyline looking for the familiar shapes of the classic lakeland fells by which to work out my bearing. The Langdale Pikes, along with Great Gable, must be the most 'looked for' landmarks by which I can then place other surrounding fells. Some folk talk about mountains provoking certain feelings; the 'Pikes' feel homely to me, perhaps because they sit proudly in the middle of the area I am most familiar with in Lakeland.

 In my opinion nobody sums up the Lakeland fells better than Wainwright himself. This is what he has to say on the 'pikes'. "No mountain profile in Lakeland arrests and excites the attention more than that of the Langdale Pikes and no mountain group better illustrates the dramatic appeal of a sudden rising of the vertical from the horizontal; the full height from valley to summit is revealed at a glance in one simple abrupt upsurge to all travellers on the distant shores of Windermere and, more intimately, on the beautiful approach along Great Langdale." Poetry indeed.

May 2011 - Langdale Pikes over Elterwater

 Of course the 'Pikes' are generally accepted as referring to four distinct peaks; Harrison Stickle, Pike of Stickle, Loft Crag and Pavey Ark. Only from the south can they all be seen together from a single vantage point and so the 'Langdake Pikes' may mean different things to different people depending on where they are viewed. The picture above, taken from Elterwater, shows the typical 'tourist' profile of Harrison Stickle in the centre with Loft Crag on the left and Pavey Ark on the right. This is the aspect also seen from Bowness and the road to Ambleside and therefore adorns the many place mats and coasters in their trinket shops. But for a finer appreciation of the Pikes you have get in, amongst and around them.


October 2010 - The Langdale Pikes southern profile

 This aspect shows the Pikes seen over Wrynose Fell from 'Prison Band' and was taken while walking from Swirl How to Wetherlam. The distinct profile of Pike of Stickle can now be seen on the far left, while Loft Crag loses its profile against High Raise. Harrison Stickle is the highest point on the right and Pavey Ark is just visible through the cloud.


October 2010 - Pike of Stickle and a local

 The picture above was taken from the 'Band' at the start of a long walk from the Langdale valley to Scafell Pike and back. This was one of my most enjoyable days in the fells. The route is described here


October 2010 - Mickleden and the Great Langdale Valley

 This picture was taken from Rossett Gill and shows Pike of Stickle bathed in dappled evening sun on the return journey from the Scafell Pike walk. Mickleden Beck winds its way along the Great Langdale Valley towards Lingmoor Fell. From a technical perspective its a poor shot, the highlights are badly blown but I don't care. I like the colours of the scorched Bracken and the contours of the valley.


October 2010 - Pike of Stickle & Loft Crag from Mickleden

 The above shows Pike of Stickle from valley floor to summit. On my 'to do' list is a direct ascent of this face and along the gully on the right. It looks as if it couldn't take more than 1/2 hour but of course looks can be deceiving. The full height is 2323 feet and the vast majority of those feet are climbed in one direct line from valley floor to summit.


Jan 2013 - looking mean & moody in their winter coat, from Oxendale

October 2010 - The Langdale Pikes over Rossett Pike from Great End Summit

 The summit of Great End must offer some of the best views in Lakeland. This picture looks down under darkening clouds along the Great Langdale valley with three of the Langdale Pikes on display and Windermere visible in the distance over Lingmoor Fell.


October 2010 - Langdale Pikes over Rossett Pike

 This must be my favourite view of the Pikes. I always think there is something special about looking down on these majestic fells from a high vantage point. Their profile is somewhat lost from the lofty heights of Bow Fell & Esk Pike but on the descent between Esk Hause and Rossett Pike they slowly begin to take shape again against the skyline to the point where you just have to stop and admire.  


March 2010 - Loft Crag from Pike of Stickle summit


March 2010 - Harrison Stickle, Pavey Ark & Stickle Tarn

 This shows the western side of the pikes where just Harrison Stickle & Pavey Ark can be seen. It was taken from near Blea Rigg on a cold March morning. Stickle tarn is still frozen.

April 2011 - Pavey Ark showing Jacks Rake

 This picture shows the best way up Pavey Ark. Jacks Rake is a steep scramble seen climbing diagonally under its shear face. Whilst it looks like a terrifying prospect from this vantage point, the route is fairly straight forward and with a much lower sense of exposure that seems likely when gazing up from below. 

 Next up is Bowfell, admittedly my favourite place to be in the lakes. If the Langdale Pikes feel 'homely', Bow Fell feels decidedly more harsh & intimidating. This may be because it seems to attract cloud and bad weather like no other fell and once visibility lost, its summit can feel hostile and disorientating. For me, the best ways up are via The Band or from Crinkle Crags, but with either way, the climbers traverse / great slab route show the superb rock scenery at its best. For lots more pictures and detailed route see here.


Oct 2010 - Bowfells rock scenary from the climbers traverse

 The above picture is taken from climbers traverse and shows Cambridge Crag on the left and Bowfell Buttress on the right. A brave walker could scramble up the gully between the two but the best way up from this point is to follow a steep diagonal path along the left side of Cambridge Crag which then emerges by Great Slab.


Oct 2010 - Great Slab on Bowfell

 This is the iconic viewpoint of Great Slab as drawn in Wainwright's pictorial guide. In the background, the Langdale Pikes complete the scene.

Oct 2010 - Great Slab & Bowfell Buttress

 This view shows the diagonal route along Cambridge Crag and Great Slab from the climbers traverse route. Two tiny figures can be seen emerging from the top of the boulders to give some scale to this grand scene. Walkers who choose the 'normal' way up Bowfell would miss out on this stunning rock scape.


Oct 2010 - Esk Pike, Bowfell and Crnkle Crags from above Esk Hause

 Bowfell's slightly more serene face is on the Eskdale side. This view is from the path from Great End to Esk Hause and shows Bowfell as the highest point and the Crinkle Crags trailing off on the right.


Oct 2012 - Great Slab as seen in profile from Rossett Pike

 Next up are a random selection of favourite pics from many different walks. As you may have gathered, I'm attracted to pointy bits of rock when out in the fells so most are of that ilk. There is less chit chat and more pics.


Feb 2011 - Sharp Edge On Blencathra. A tiny figure about to take the plunge

Feb 2011 - Sharp Edge complete with brave walker

Feb 2011 - Sharp Edge showing its 'sharpness'

June 2011 - Sprinkling Tarn and Great Gable

Scafell Pike, Lingmell & Scafell from Great Gable

June 2011- Great Gable summit view over Sprinkling Tarn & Allen Crags towards Langdale Pikes and Windermere

June 2011 - Looking over Haystacks to Buttermere from Green Gable

Great Gable from Green Gable


March 2012 - Sunrise over Crinkle Crags following a wild camp on Scafell summit

Feb 2013 - Looking towards the Scafell's in the early morning from Grasmoor summit

And to finish, some of my favourite winter photos. I, like many others, love the fells in winter. The presence of snow and ice not only present a new challenge to the walker but shows the fells in a completely different perspective. Familiar routes look alien when doused in the white stuff and fell tops look their majestic best when snow covered. Of course this also means heavy packs, warm & bulky clothes, short daylight hours and often the use of ice axe & crampons. All is worth it though .....


Crepuscular Rays illuminate the Fairfield Horseshoe

... and more such rays over Grasmere

Yoke, Ill Bell & Froswick while on the Kentmere Horseshoe

Kentmere Reservoir from the flanks of Harter Fell

Sistrugi on Kentmere Pike

 That's the lot. Hopefully there will be many more to come as I'm only 98 into the 214 Wainwrights so far. Still a long way to go ...