I had always intended to finish my Wainwright quest on Haystacks. It was one of his favourite fells and his ashes are reputedly scattered by Innominate Tarn. I have looked down onto its gnarly summit plateau many times from the surrounding lofty fells but have deliberately avoided standing on its hallowed ground until today. I always thought a nice fell to accompany Haystacks in a circular walk would be Fleetwith Pike and so these 2 fells were planned as my final 2.
A video of the 2 day hike can be seen above
Having climbed Fellbarrow and Low Fell yesterday, I spent the night in the camper van, got up early and drove to Gatescarth by the south end of Buttermere. The plan was to climb Fleetwith Pike up its steep northwestern ridge.
The Steep Northwestern ridge of Fleetwith Pike
It's a good path all the way to the summit taking in some impressive crags and rocky scenery as well as some short sections of scrambling. The backwards views over the Buttermere valley get better with altitude.
The Buttermere Valley
Fleetwith Pike summit view of Haystacks with Pillar beyond
From Fleetwith Pike, a path picks its way southeast before striking one of the old slate quarry paths heading southwest past Dubs Hut Bothy, crossing Warnscale Beck and then turning westwards towards Haystacks. This is a lovely part of the walk as the path meanders through the impressive crags of Haystacks, past Blackbeck Tarn and the lovely Innominate Tarn before heading up onto the impressive summit.
Dub Hut Bothy
Blackbeck Tarn
The Buttermere Valley
Innominate Tarn with Pillar Behind
Innominate Tarn
Haystacks is certainly a popular fell and indeed it entertained a steady procession of walkers including some large groups while I was there. The summit views are magnificent in all directions and only the lack a good prospect of Buttermere is missing. And this is something easily remedied by a short walk to a rocky outcrop over the other side of the lovely un-named summit tarn. From here, the views north over the Buttermere valley are unsurpassed and certainly worthy of 30 minutes R&R.
The un-named Tarn on Haystacks summit
Mission Accomplished
Stunning Views from Haystacks
It was with some reluctance that I finally left Haystacks and headed down the well worn path back down to Buttermere. For most of the way, the whole route taken from start to finish is in view on the right side.
Magnificent Views of Fleetwith Pike from the descent path
So that was my final Wainwright, all done from Lakes level and all on my own. It ends a journey which started on Helm Crag 16 years ago. I blame 10 years of weekend kids football for the lack of timely progress but also my habit of revisiting old favourite fells by different routes rather than getting on with the matter at hand. But eventually they all got done, even if it took me longer than it took Wainwright himself to walk and then write up all 7 of his pictorial guides. But then I'm guessing he didn't have kids football to contend with.
The route : clockwise from the Darling How car park (bottom left)
A video of the hike - Watch it ! It's really good ! (IMHO☺️)
The intention of this hike was to tick off the 7 fells in the Wythop and Lorton region but ... I ran out of steam after the 6th fell. The main problem with trying to link these fells together is that many of them stand alone and therefore require a considerable height loss between each one. This does sap the leg strength, and as a result, I will need to leave Whinlatter for another day. OK, excuses over. Let's get on with the hike.
The walk starts by the Darling How car park on the Whinlatter pass. A path wanders down and over the Aikin Beck before turning to follow it downstream for a short while. Just before the Scawgill Bridge, a vague path heads steeply upwards following a dry stone wall on a fairly straight course up onto the summit plateau of Kirk Fell. Graystones is the name given to the summit.
The steep path up onto Graystones
From Graystones summit, Ling Fell looks a long way away. A path follows the course of a tumble down dry stone wall northwards towards Ling Fell. Much height is lost and has to be regained on this 2 mile route.
The view from Graystones over to Whinlatter
The onwards view to Ling Fell
Ling Fell ahead
On the summit of Ling Fell is a lovely pillar shaped Trig point that looks like it was built yesterday. It really has weathered well since its construction in 1949.
Ling Fell Summit with a glimpse of Bassenthwaite Lake
From here, the whole circular route can be surveyed and in particular, the dispiriting sight of Sale Fell which stands alone like an island. The realisation soon dawns that this fell will also require its full height ascended and descended. And so I started the steep descent with the knowledge that every step downwards would require another equal step upwards on the other side of the Wythop valley.
Sale Fell over the Wythop Valley
It's another steep climb through the bracken up onto the summit plateau of Sale Fell, which represents the far northern extremity of the Lake District fells. From the summit, there are stunning views out over the Irish Sea, and the Solway Firth to Scotland.
The path up Sale Fell
Sale Fell views over to the coast
Onward views towards Broom Fell & Lord's Seat
Attention then turns south towards Broom Fell, and the Wythop valley in between which requires crossing again. A good path leads off the fell down to Old Scales but from there onwards there is no clear path to Broom Fell on the map. Progress is therefore made upwards along farm tracks on grassy field skirting the right side of a small valley eventually passing a small copse on the left and heading upwards onto the summit plateau. Broom Fell adorns an impressive summit cairn and wind shelter as well as stunning views over towards the much larger Coledale Fells.
Broom Fell views over to Skiddaw …
… and the Coledale Fells
Lord's Seat is thankfully only a short distance, and a short ascent away. This is the highest fell of the hike today at 1811 feet. A good path then meanders down to Barf.
Lord's Seat summit looking down to Barf and Skiddaw beyond
Barf summit is a wonderful place and without doubt the highlight of the walk. The views over the length of Bassenthwaite Lake over towards the Skiddaw massif are breathtaking and well worthy of a 30 minute respite.
Barf summit view
From here the path to Lord's Seat is retraced about 2/3 of the way before a side track heads off in the direction of Whinlatter. Soon, a forestry track is intercepted which winds downwards towards the flanks of Whinlatter. At this point I decided that 8 hours and 3700 feet of ascent was quite enough for one day and I therefore continued on past Whinlatter which will need to be climbed another day.
This walk was hard work, mainly because of the considerable ups and downs which saps the strength. But unless each fell (other than Broom Fell, Lord's Seat and Barf - which link nicely together) is climbed on a different day, there is no easy way to link them together. These are very quiet fells though so for those seeking solitude they represent very good value.
So thats 208 Wainwrights now climbed. Just 6 left to go.
Wainwrights:Carrock Fell (661m), High Pike (658m), Knott (710m), Great Calva (690m)
Start/Finish: Mosedale Village
Total Distance: 14.5 miles
Time Taken: 8 Hours
The Route : Anti-clockwise from Mosedale
A Video of the Hike
It has been a long time since I was last in the fells. 12 months to be precise, when I climbed up Jacks Rake with my lad. Lots of excuses - mainly the appalling weather and the fact that at my time of life, I really don't want to be braving the elements and suffering unnecessarily in bad weather for zero chance of a summit view. So today was time to make amends and continue the quest which started 15 years ago and had been stuck on 198 Wainwrights for far too long.
I only had 4 fells left in the Northern Region and they were ones at the back of Blencathra, namely: Carrock Fell, High Pike, Knott and Great Calva. It was going to be a long hike to link these 4 together but I wanted to get them done in a single stretch so a route was planned and I headed off to the Lakes at first light on a cold but clear Friday morning, hopeful that my fitness hadn't completely abandoned me.
I parked the car in Mosedale and then headed along the road northwards for about a mile. The scenery is dominated by the impressive looking Carrock Fell on the left side.
Carrock Fell from Mosedale
Most of the fells north of Blencathra and Skiddaw are quite benign in appearance, being mainly grassy mounds with little in the way of rocky scenery. No so with Carrock Fell though. It is decidedly craggy and imposing with steep gnarly flanks. The only accessible path on the OS map was on the eastern face and that was where I headed. The path leaves the road by a small lay-bye and heads upwards, flanking the right side of a steep gully, before emerging onto the summit.
The way up Carrock Fell
The summit of Carrock Fell is a shattered pile of rocks with an impressive looking cairn and a wind shelter. The views are impressive in all directions.
Carrock Fell Summit
After a 20 minute respite, I head off westwards on a good path, which then veered northwards towards High Pike. 45 minutes later I was stood on this interesting summit.
High Pike
High Pike Summit looking East ...
... and looking West
High Pike summit is dominated by a large triangular pile of rocks which could be clearly seen from Carrock Fell. What was unexpected is the lovely stone bench and an impressive trig point. The bench is a memorial to a young boy who loved this area but tragically passed away aged 16 in 1944.
The Memorial Bench on High Pike Summit
The route then re-treads the path back down High Pike before veering off South-Westwards towards Knott. About halfway along the route is Lingy Hut Bothy, one of just 4 Bothies in the Lake District. It is basically a wooden shed guyed down to prevent it from blowing away. Inside are very basic amenities and a sleeping platform. Perfect for a night out on the fells if you don't want to carry your own shelter.
Lingy Hut Bothy
Knott (as opposed to 'The Knott', in the Far Eastern Fells) is the highest fell on today's route, at 710 meters. It also has the least impressive summit of the 4. No trig point, bench or wind shelter. Just a small pile of stones.
'Knott' summit
From Knott, Great Calva is due South and looks impressively steep and mountainesque in its profile. The path continues westwards and then turns due South to climb up between Little Calva and Great Calva.
Great Calva (left), LIttle Calva (right) & Skiddaw (background)
Little Calva isn't a Wainwright but I thought it might be worth the small detour onto its summit. It wasn't.
Little Calva Summit
A good path now heads straight up onto the summit of Great Calva. This is another fell with impressive summit features including a large cairn and great views in all directions.
Great Calva Summit
It was now a case of tackling the steep descent off the eastern face of Great Calva down a heather invaded path which winds its way steeply down to join the Cumbria Way. It was then another 4 miles following the River Caldew back to Mosedale.
The path down the west face of Great Calva
The bridge over Grainsgill Beck
The Cumbria Way
Nearly back at Mosedale
So that's 202 Wainwright's done and dusted. Just 12 to go, over 3 hikes. Should be finished by the end of summer.
