I had always intended to finish my Wainwright quest on Haystacks. It was one of his favourite fells and his ashes are reputedly scattered by Innominate Tarn. I have looked down onto its gnarly summit plateau many times from the surrounding lofty fells but have deliberately avoided standing on its hallowed ground until today. I always thought a nice fell to accompany Haystacks in a circular walk would be Fleetwith Pike and so these 2 fells were planned as my final 2.
A video of the 2 day hike can be seen above
Having climbed Fellbarrow and Low Fell yesterday, I spent the night in the camper van, got up early and drove to Gatescarth by the south end of Buttermere. The plan was to climb Fleetwith Pike up its steep northwestern ridge.
The Steep Northwestern ridge of Fleetwith Pike
It's a good path all the way to the summit taking in some impressive crags and rocky scenery as well as some short sections of scrambling. The backwards views over the Buttermere valley get better with altitude.
The Buttermere Valley
Fleetwith Pike summit view of Haystacks with Pillar beyond
From Fleetwith Pike, a path picks its way southeast before striking one of the old slate quarry paths heading southwest past Dubs Hut Bothy, crossing Warnscale Beck and then turning westwards towards Haystacks. This is a lovely part of the walk as the path meanders through the impressive crags of Haystacks, past Blackbeck Tarn and the lovely Innominate Tarn before heading up onto the impressive summit.
Dub Hut Bothy
Blackbeck Tarn
The Buttermere Valley
Innominate Tarn with Pillar Behind
Innominate Tarn
Haystacks is certainly a popular fell and indeed it entertained a steady procession of walkers including some large groups while I was there. The summit views are magnificent in all directions and only the lack a good prospect of Buttermere is missing. And this is something easily remedied by a short walk to a rocky outcrop over the other side of the lovely un-named summit tarn. From here, the views north over the Buttermere valley are unsurpassed and certainly worthy of 30 minutes R&R.
The un-named Tarn on Haystacks summit
Mission Accomplished
Stunning Views from Haystacks
It was with some reluctance that I finally left Haystacks and headed down the well worn path back down to Buttermere. For most of the way, the whole route taken from start to finish is in view on the right side.
Magnificent Views of Fleetwith Pike from the descent path
So that was my final Wainwright, all done from Lakes level and all on my own. It ends a journey which started on Helm Crag 16 years ago. I blame 10 years of weekend kids football for the lack of timely progress but also my habit of revisiting old favourite fells by different routes rather than getting on with the matter at hand. But eventually they all got done, even if it took me longer than it took Wainwright himself to walk and then write up all 7 of his pictorial guides. But then I'm guessing he didn't have kids football to contend with.
Start/Finish: Millbeck Farm Wainwrights: Dodd (1612ft) , Carl Side (2420ft), Long Side (2405ft), Ullock Pike (2230ft), Skiddaw (3053ft), Little Man (2837ft), Lonscale Fell (2344ft), Latrigg (1203ft)
Distance: 14 miles
Total Ascent: 4117ft Time Taken: 8 hours
The Route : Clockwise from Millbeck
I'm finally back in the fells! It's certainly been a while since my last Lakeland Hike. The Wainwright count has been stalled on 179 for the past 2 years. It was time to restart the campaign.
A video of the hike
My focus for the next few hikes is going to be on the Northern Fells. I've plotted routes to complete them all in 4 day hikes. Today was the first such route and was centred around the Skiddaw group of fells. The northern fells are not a particularly easy group to link together efficiently and so I used routes based on those suggested by Stuart Marshall in his book, 'Walking the Wainwrights'.
Views towards the Newlands and Coledale Valleys from Millbeck
Millbeck
I started at Millbeck on a lovely spring morning and headed up Skiddaw Dodd along the meandering forestry paths which traverse the fell. There are many route options. A map helps but it's really just a case of heading upwards at every route choice until the summit is reached.
The views get better with height
Early morning mist over Derwent Water
Forestry path leading up to Dodd
Dodd summit view west over Bassenthwaite Lake ...
... and south towards Derwent Water ...
... and finally north towards Ullock Pike and Long Side
Postcard view of the Coledale Fells
The summit view from Dodd is really quite something and far in excess of what could be expected from just one hour of fairly minimal effort. The next objective of Carl Side looms ominously to the north and involves a 10 minute retracing of steps before a path branches off downwards towards White Stones. Unfortunately about 400 feet of height is lost before the ascent returns with fury. An hour of hard labour results in the conquest of Carl Side which is a fairly unimpressive mound with a tiny cairn to denote the summit.
Looking back to Dodd from the path up to Carl Side
Carl Side summit looking towards Skiddaw
Long Side looms to the west and an obvious path takes a direct course to its summit. A further narrow path continues towards Ullock Pike. The views down to Bassenthwaite Lake are stunning along the whole ridge.
Ullock Pike view of Bassenthwaite Lake
From Ullock Pike, the route is retraced back over Long Side before a wide path veers off towards the ascent of Skiddaw.
Long Side and Carl Side from the ascent path to Skiddaw
From the col at Carlside Tarn the route then steers north-eastwards up a steep shale path which eventually emerges onto a broad ridge leading gently up to Skiddaw summit. Of course the expected summit slugs were sat on the trig point enjoying their lunch. For the life of me I don't understand why people do this. Why sit on the very busiest point of a mountain, where everyone else wants to get to, surely knowing that your presence there is so obviously unwanted. Maybe they have no sense of self awareness ?
Summit Slugs on Skiddaw
Little Man is the next objective and in clear view over to the south east. The summit is lovely place with fantastic views. A little grassy terrace a few steps down on the Keswick side is a great place for 10 minutes R&R.
The path to Little Man
Little Man summit view over Derwent Water
Little Man summit view back to Skiddaw
Little Man summit towards Lonscale Fell with Blencathra beyond
Lonscale Fell is clearly visible to the east and involves a fairly dreary trudge towards this expansive grassy plateau where the summit is marked by a small pile of stones.
Lonscale Fell summit view west back towards Skiddaw
Lonscale Fell summit view east towards Blencathra
It was now time to head downwards, initially re-tracing steps for 5 minutes before heading along a good path due south towards the car park on the Cumbria Way. From there, a path skirts Latrigg on the western side before looping round and approaching the summit from the south. Lovely views over Keswick towards Derwent Water and the Newlands Valley are ample reward from this last fell, the lowest of the day but perhaps the best viewpoint of them all.
Views of Keswick from the descent path
Looking back along the descent path from the Hawell memorial
Latrigg
Looking back along the route taken from the flanks of Latrigg
Latrigg summit view of Keswick and Derwent Water
It was then a case of picking a route back to the car by the avoidance of road walking as much as possible.
Next up, the fells north of Skiddaw, or perhaps the Blencathra Group. Hopefully not too long off.
The Route : Clockwise from Bridge End (most southern point)
This was first time back in the fells after a 6 month hiatus. I've lost a bit of fitness so decided to peruse the less lofty fells on my Wainwrights 'to-do' list. High Rigg seemed like a nice option. Indeed Wainwright described this very walk as being "... suited to old and rickety fellwalkers long past their best". Perfect for me then! He also suggests doing the walk clockwise so that the lovely views of Blencathra are always in front when on the higher ground. I therefore followed this advice.
I parked right by Smaithwaite Bridge on the A591. There is a stile and gate within the dry stone wall just north of the bridge where the path heads along St John's Beck. A steepish path then branches off on the left towards Wren Crag. The hillside is littered with uprooted trees following the recent winter storms.
The Stile on the A591
Views down to St John's in the Vale from the upwards path
The first of many uprooted trees on the hill side
Looking back towards Great How
The path up to Wren Crag
Glimpses of Thirlmere behind
Views from Wren Crag looking north - Mart Crag with Blencathra and Skiddaw on the horizon and down along the 'St Johns in the Vale' valley
A little un-named tarn between Mart Crag and High Rigg
The path up to High Rigg
High Rigg summit views of Blencathra ...
… and back towards Thirlmere
From High Rigg I decided to extend the walk over Low Rigg and Tewet tarn. The path passes the little church and youth centre.
Low Rigg over the Youth Cente
There can't be a more picturesque Youth Centre in the UK ?
Looking back over High Rigg
Skiddaw from Low Rigg summit
Tewet Tarn
I then headed back via Yew tree farm and the main path skirting Rake How and heading towards Low Bridge End Farm following the course of St John's in the Vale Beck. Overall a lovely little walk perfect for blowing off the cobwebs.
