Showing posts with label find climbers traverse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label find climbers traverse. Show all posts

Friday, July 11, 2014

Crinkle Crags & Bowfell (via climbers traverse)


Date : 11th July 2014
Start/End : Old Dungeon Ghyll
Wainwrights : Crinkle Crags & Bowfell
Distance : 9.6 miles (15.5km)
Height Gained : 3600 feet (1097 meters)
Time Taken : a very leisurely 8.5 hours


The route : clockwise from Old Dungeon Ghyll

This is one of my favourite areas in Lakeland. The Great Langdale valley is delectable country and the Crinkle Crags ridge leading up to the pinnacle of Bowfell occupies prime position at its head. It had been a few years since I last did this route and at the time I rushed it due it impending bad weather and didn't really have time to savour the views. Today, however, the forecast was perfect and I had the company of my Dad, so no need to race. 

An Aerial 3D Fly-Through of the Route


This particular route from Stool End Farm up the Oxendale path and along Crinkle Crags to Bowfell has become increasingly popular since being featured in the Julia Bradbury 'Wainwright Walks' TV series. Our intended route, as did Julia's, also included the 'climbers traverse' path along the eastern face of Bowfell, which skirts its most impressive rock scenery. At least that was the plan. The route can be demanding for some and although my Dad managed to climb Ben Nevis, Snowdon & Scafell Pike in his 70th year last summer, he hadn't done any fell walking since. We therefore had options to bale out down the 'Band' after Crinkle Crags or to climb Bowfell via the less exposed tourist route directly from 3 Tarns. 

Looking up the Oxendale valley
Crinkle Crags from the bridge over Oxendale Beck

We set off in bright sunshine at 11am along the path to Stool End Farm and then headed up the Oxendale Valley. From the new wooden bridge (rebuilt in 2005 after a storm swept the old one away) the path heads steeply up towards Red Tarn. Height is gained rapidly in this first section and backward glances reveal a constantly changing perspective of the Langdale Pikes. 



The Langdale Pikes





Views over to Bowfell and Hells Gill
Views back from Brown Howe

 The path gains a distinctively red tinge as Red Tarn is approached due the abundance of haematite & red sandstone in this area. Once at Red Tarn the bulk of the days steep ascent is done and the route flattens off as it approaches the first Crinkle. 


Heading up the 'Red' Oxendale Path


Red Tarn


Crinkle Crags & Bowfell from Great Knott

A short diversion up to Great Knott is well worth the effort as from this vantage point the whole ridge can be seen in all its glory. From here the path is currently being improved by the 'fix the fells' team who today were busily grafting in the hot sun. Finally a short but steep section leads up to the summit of Crinkle 1. Here, for the first time, the Scafells come into view over the Eskdale valley. We had lunch here just off to the western side enjoying superb views right down the length of the Great Langdale valley. Wainwright describes the walk along Crinkle Crags as "the finest ridge mile in the Lake District" and a "fell walkers delight". It's easy to see why with steep drops down to plunging valleys on both sides and a constantly changing terrain underfoot.

Views of the Scafells from the summit of Crinkle 1


Our lunch spot looking down the Great Langdale valley


Looking back over Great Knott, Red Tarn & Pike O'Blisco towards Windermere


Crinkles 2 & 3 from Crinkle 1

The approach to Crinkle 2 (Long Top) reveals the famous 'Bad Step' which seemingly blocks the direct route up to the summit. It is essentially a large chockstone wedged at the top of a narrow 12 foot high gulley. The solution is a 'fairly' simple climb up the rock face on the right side, after which the summit is a 1 minute 'boulder stroll' away. My Dad didn't fancy this so he took the alternative path around to the left while I cautiously scrambled up.



The approach to 'Bad Step'


Bad Step looking 'Bad'

The summit of the second Crinkle represents the true summit of Crinkle Crags but I think the best views are from Crinkle 3 which imposes more abruptly than the others into Great Langdale giving the best perspective along the valley. 

Crinkle 2 summit panorama East


Crinkle 2 summit panorama West


Bowfell & and the remaining ridge walk from Crinkle 3


Great Langdale from Crinkle 3


The Scafell's from Crinkle 3

As the ridge walk continues its undulating course, Bowfell becomes more imposing with every step. A short detour to Shelter Crags (essentially the 6th Crinkle) shows it off best. 



Eying up a potential wild camping spot near Crinkle 5


Bowfell Links looking magnificent from near Shelter Crags

From 3 Tarns we had a rest stop & stamina check resulting in the decision to carry on up Bowfell via the climbers traverse route. This involves skirting 'off path' eastwards across the southern flank of Bowfell until the narrow winding path is picked up. Climbers traverse is essentially a rock climbers route to access the vertical crags of Bowfell Buttress, Flat Crags & Cambridge Crags. These towering rock faces represent Bowfells best bits and are largely hidden from view to walkers climbing up from the 'Band' and the typical route from 3 Tarns.

If you want to access climbers traverse from the Band then that route is described in detail here

Or climbers traverse in winter is described here


The early section of climbers traverse


The winding path heading towards Bowfell Buttress


Bowfell Buttress and Easy Gulley (doesn't look easy to me!)

The traverse clings to Bowfell's steep eastern flank passing right under these vertical walls of rock until a point is reached at the bottom centre of Cambridge Crag where a spring emerges from the rock face. It is here that Wainwright recommends stopping for a drink as "nothing better ever came out of a barrel or a bottle". It really is very invigorating and provides just the refreshment needed before tackling the steep route upwards from here.
 
The water spout, showing the way up along the boulder field

From this point a steep diagonal route is evident cutting backwards (leftwards as you look at Cambridge Crag) up a 'river of boulders'. This is the way up, which once followed, quite quickly reveals the lower part of Great Slab, an aptly named huge hunk of flat rock dominating the left side of the ascent. Route choice is now to either continue the scramble up the boulder field or walk up the calf burning angular rock face of Great Slab. Having tried both, I prefer the former as the use of hands can be quite reassuring on such an exposed area. 

The lower part of Great Slab


Tackling the steep ascent

The top of Great Slab is one of the best places to be in the fells. This classic view with the Langdale Pikes in the background is immortalised in Wainwright's ink drawing in book 4.




Walking with a companion today meant I could take advantage of them as photographer while I made my way over to pose similarly at the top.


Me looking tiny at the top of the Great Slab

From here it is a 2 minute wander over the boulder strewn summit until the top is reached. The summit panorama is outstanding as Bowfell occupies prime position at the head of 3 main valleys (Great Langdale, Eskdale & Langstrath). In fact only Great Gable, out of all the high Lakeland fells, is not fully visible. We were lucky to be up there in good weather today as usually, if there is a cloud to be seen in Cumbria, it is often perched stubbornly on Bowfell summit. For the record, its only a 30 minute climb from the water spout to the summit, but Oh! what a great 30 minutes!

Windermere peeping through the top of Great Slab


Bowfell summit view back over Crinkle Crags


The Scafells from Bowfell summit : Broad Stand looking very vertical from here!


The view north to Esk Pike


Views down the Eskdale valley


Views along Great Langdale


Bowfell summit panorama west


Bowfell summit panorama east


The obligatory summit selfie

We then headed down towards 3 Tarns and back along the Band. Exactly 2 hours later we were enjoying a well earned pint at the Old Dungeon Ghyll as the last light of day slid over the Langdale Pikes ending a fantastic day in the fells.

A last glance at one of the best views in the Lake District


Looking back towards Red Tarn & Pike O'Blisco


The 3 Tarns


Langdale Pikes from the top of the Band



Nearly down

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Langdale to Scafell Pike: A day hike

Date: 19th October 2010
Route: From Old Dungeon Ghyll to Bowfell via climbers traverse, then Esk Pike, Scafell Pike and back via Great End and Rossett Pike.
Wainwrights: Bowfell, Esk Pike, Scafell Pike, Great End, Rossett Pike
Distance: 20.8km (13 miles)
Height Gained: 1622 meters (5323 feet)
Time Taken: 8 hours
 _____________________________________________________________________

The route, clockwise from Old Dungeon Ghyll (far right)

 This was one of those walks where you set off with a fair idea of your route but then one thing leads to another and you end up wandering much further than planned. My intended summit today was Bowfell from old Dungeon Ghyll at the head of the Great Langdale valley. I wanted to climb it via the 'climbers traverse' route, which can be difficult to find, as I had discovered the previous year. That time I had stumbled across it, more by luck than judgement, while heading up Bowfell from Crinkle Crags. On that day the weather was poor, with rain and hill fog obscuring views. Having now researched the route more thoroughly, and with a clear forecast, I set off at 7:30am heading for 'The Band' and keeping an eye out for the point where a path veers off on the right for the climbers traverse and the extensive rocky crags of the east face of Bowfell.

The view along Mickleden from the path to Stool End farm at 7:00 am

The path to Stool End farm and beyond to Crinkle Crags

Crinkle Crags bathed in early morning sunlight

Pike of Stickle and a local

Views towards the Langdale Pikes from high up on The Band

From The Band: Red tarn just visible between Pike O'Blisco and Cold Pike with Wetherlam beyond

Attention! - this is the point where the indistinct path to climbers traverse veers off, snaking over high ground on right

The view back down the Great Langdale Valley

 Climbers traverse is a fairly well trodden path which winds it way underneath Bowfells impressive rocky scenery. It is so named as it was used by rock climbers to access Bowfell Buttress and Cambridge Crags. It is not shown on the OS map but is well described in Wainwright's Pictorial Guide: Book 4. 


Climbers traverse meandering under Bowfells crags

The view over Rossett Pike to Glaramara - from climbers traverse

 At the point where a spring emerges from moss covered rock on the left a subtle path can be seen cutting steeply backwards as it skirts Cambridge Crag. This is easily missed so if you find yourself passing beyond the rocky bulk of Cambridge Crag (see pictures) then you have gone too far. 

Cambridge Crag (left) and Bowfell Buttress (right). The path up follows the diagonal contour seen climbing steeply leftwards under Cambridge Crag

The spring where Wainwright recommends filling ones water bottle

At the spring, a rocky path climbs up along Cambridge Crag

 The steep 'path' soon disintegrates into a boulder field but the lie of the land is easy to follow as you skirt Cambridge Crag on the right, eventually emerging onto the iconic and aptly named 'Great Slab'. This impressive rocky feature is very obvious when seen but it is probably best to stay close to the boulders on the right which is the less exposed route. 


The bottom of Great Slab

A classic Lakeland view: the top of Great Slab on Bowfell

 Once at the top of 'Great Slab' take a moment to ponder the magnificent view towards the Langdale Pikes and the Great Langdale Valley. This is truly one of the finest Lakeland aspects. It's then a simple case of following the rock-scape upwards until you emerge on the summit of Bowfell and are rewarded by breathtaking views of the Scafells over the Eskdale valley.

 Anyone familiar with Bowfell will be aware of its local microclimate. If there is a cloud to be seen, it will usually make a beeline for the summit while often leaving other nearby peaks untouched. This typically changeable weather was no different today. In the 20 minutes I sat there enjoying coffee & flapjack the clouds descended obscuring all views, it then snowed briefly before the cloud lifted and the sun came out.

Looking over Crinkle Crags from Bowfell summit

Bowfell summit panorama west towards the Scafell range

Bowfell summit panorama east back to the Great Langdale valley

 From this point I had intended to either tackle the Crinkles, or go the other way to Esk Pike and back via Rossett Pike. However, as I gazed across to Scafell Pike and eyeballed the route back along the ridge to Great End, Esk Hause, Esk Pike and back to where I was now stood, this seemed like such an inviting objective. A quick look at the map confirmed good paths all the way and it didn't seem 'too' far. Decision made, I set off at a quick pace, mindful of the distance and rocky terrain despite the illusion of an easy jaunt. It is a straight forward path along the broad ridge to Esk Pike with great views in all directions but particularly forwards to Great Gable and left to the Scafell range.

Esk Pike summit panorama west - Bowfell far left, Scafell's mid-right

The Esk valley from Esk Pike

Great End and Great Gable from Esk Hause












 By the time I reached Esk Hause the weather had continued to improve and I was making good time. I followed the path upwards to gain the Scafell ridge and then continued on to Ill Crag.

Great Gable and Kirk Fell from near Ill Crag

Ill Crag summit panorama over Eskdale

Ill Crag summit panorama west

Scafell Pike from Ill Crag

 Scafell Pike didn't seem to be getting any closer but I continued on along increasingly rocky terrain until the final steep ascent emerged onto the summit plateau. There was one other hiker at the top but he headed off as I arrived and I had the summit of England's highest all to myself for a precious 10 minutes before others emerged from the Wasdale side.

Scafell Pike summit panorama west

Scafell Pike summit panorama north-east

Scafell Pike summit view east towards Bow Fell & Crinkle Crags

Scafell Pike summit view towards Scafell and Wast Water

 I headed back along my tracks making a short diversion to Broad Crag before retreading my steps back along the ridge towards Great End. When I reached the point labelled 'Bield' on the map where the main path descends back to Esk Hause, I decided it would be foolish to walk past Great End and so headed up along an easy path to its summit. It was a worthwhile detour as the views in all directions were stunning.

Great Gable and Styhead tarn from Broad Crag

Lingmell and Great Gable from near Great End

Great End summit panorama west

The view over Rossett Pike towards Great Langdale - from Great End summit

Esk Pike and Bowfell from the descent to Esk Hause

 I then walked back down to 'Bield' to rejoin the path to Esk Hause before bearing eastwards towards Angle Tarn. From this area there are stunning views over to the Langdale Pikes. There is something special about looking down onto these iconic fells from higher ground and I think this vantage point showcases the 'Pikes' from their very best aspect.


Looking down on the Langdale Pikes from near Angle Tarn

Angle Tarn

 The last fell of the day is Rossett Pike, which although the least in altitude, commands a superb vantage point at the head of the Great Langdale valley.


Rossett Pike summit view down the Great Langdale valley

Rossett Pike view over the High Raise massif and the Langdale Pikes

 On the descent from Rossett Pike the impressive rock scenery of Bowfells eastern face demands increasing attention. My earlier ascent path along climbers traverse and up to Great Slab becomes clearly visible.


Great Slab and the ascent path along the boulder field

Great Slab and Cambridge Crag: 2 climbers can just be seen emerging from the top of the boulder field

 From here the path descends steeply down Rossett Gill to eventually emerge at Mickleden under the dominating bulk of Pike of Stickle which by now was bathed in late afternoon sunlight.

Mickledon & the Great Langdale valley from Rossett Gill

Pike of Stickle from Mickledon

A last glimpse back along Mickledon towards Rossett Pike

 The legs were feeling tired now and it was a weary but thoroughly satisfied plod back along the Cumbria way to the car parked by Old Dungeon Ghyll. This was about as far (and high) as I would want to walk in a day but it was a route which had everything that I love about day hiking in the Lake District; impressive rock & crag scenery, a bit of scrambling, majestic peaks, quiet tarns and stunning views. What's not to like ?