Wansfell, Sour Howes & Sallows

Date : 16th March 2013
Route : 1) from Troutbeck to Wansfell   2) from troutbeck to Sour Howes & Sallows
Wainwrights : Wansfell (Baystones), Sour Howes, Sallows
Distance : Total = 14.87 km (9.24.miles)
Height Gained : Total = 800 m (2357 feet)

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There had been some further snow fall in the lakes over the last few days but the lower fells seemed clear. I had some free time today and wanted to tick off some of the less well known fells in the far south eastern region; namely Sour Howes and Sallows. Wainwright, in book two (far eastern fells) describes these fells as being "not strictly walkers territory" and of Sour Howes in particular he says "it is a fell with no obvious appeal to walkers, and few other than conscientious guide-book writers will visit its summit". Little was he to know that his future popularity would enthuse the 'Wainwright Bagger' to follow in his footsteps over these fells, despite his obvious lack of enthusiasm regarding their virtues. Having been somewhat less than inspired by AW's descriptions, I also intended to climb Wansfell, for which he was far more complimentary. It was therefore 2 walks today, both from the Troutbeck area. The first from High Green up to Wansfell and the second from Limefitt Park up to Sour Howes and Sallows. 

The 2 routes, both anti-clockwise

 Now regarding Wansfell, there seems to be some confusion as to exactly which peak is the official Wainwright. Most folk who climb Wansfell, particularly from Ambleside, will climb 'Wansfell Pike' and be perfectly happy to admire the view before returning, but apparently having never climbed 'Wansfell' as Wainwright described it. Because further along the ridge to the northeast from Wansfell Pike is another peak identified as 'Baystones' on the OS map, but called 'Wansfell' in Wainwright's book. This is the higher fell and looking at his pictorial map, and the altitudes he refers to, there can be no doubt that Baystones is in fact the true Wansfell according to Wainwright and therefore the fell of interest to me. To further confuse matters an area called 'Wansfell' is also indicated on the OS Map a little to the northwest of Wansfell Pike. This 'Wansfell' is not illustrated on the Wainwright map and is, according to OS, of lower altitude than both Wansfell Pike and Baystones. Like I said - some confusion. 

 The Nanny Lane Track is the main route from Troutbeck to the Wansfell region and is an easy going ascent along a good path. About halfway along its trajectory towards Wansfell Pike the path forks and I bared right towards Baystones. At this point the cloud base dropped and it started snowing.

Baystones summit (487 meters) in cloud

The ridge walk between Baystones and Wansfell Pike in low cloud and snow

Wansfell Pike summit (482 meters)

 No views today, so both peaks bagged (in case of any doubt) I headed back down along the Nanny Lane track back to the car. A short drive later I found a parking place in a lay-by near Limefitt Park holiday village. My route took me through the park to join a path which turns south to join the Garburn Pass. Shortly after joining the pass I noticed a stile in the wall on my right from which arose a vague path that seemed to head steeply in the direction of Sour Howes. I followed it upwards to a craggy area identified as 'Backstone Barrow' on the map.

The Garburn Road

Views over Windermere from Backstone Barrow

Sour Howes is up there somewhere

 An indistinct path continues upwards towards the grassy mound of Sour Howes. I was soon back in cloud. The region is largely featureless and in the absence of views today, I trudged on. From leaving the Garburn Road I didn't see anyone until I rejoined it at the end of the walk. This is clearly not a popular walkers territory.

Sour Howes summit in the mist

 On to Sallows next which is northeast from Sour Howes. I decided to take a direct route across the valley between the two fells rather than follow the wall which skirts a ridge to the western side. I couldn't see much due the low cloud but had visibility been better I would most likely have followed the ridge because I soon found myself labouring over an awkward terrain of grassy tussocks.
 

Sallows from somewhere between it and Sour Howes

  Having finally negotiated the 'terrible tussocks' I gained the ridge to the west of Sallows and was rewarded with a view over the Kentmere Fells, the cloud having lifted a little.

Sallows summit panorama East

Sallow summit panorama West

looking South over Sour Howes towards Windermere from Sallows

The Langdale Pikes 'zoomed in'  from Sallows

  I then followed a path northwards to rejoin the Garburn Pass. The clouds had finally broken giving teasing glimpses of higher fells on the walk back down. By this time Wansfell had also broken free of the cloud. Perhaps I should have done these walks the other way round.

Kirkstone Pass from the Garburn Road

Glimpses of Windermere from near the Garburn Road

Yoke and Ill Bell  from the Garburn Road

Wansfell from the Garburn Road

 The impressive looking summits of Yoke and Ill Bell, glimpsed from Sallows and the Garburn Road, convinced me that these would be the objectives for my next hike.

Beda Fell, Angletarn Pikes & Place Fell

Date : 2nd March 2013
Route : From Hause Farm, near Howtown - clockwise ridge route around the Boredale 
  valley
Wainwrights : Beda Fell, Angletarn PIkes, Place Fell
Distance : 13 km (8.07 miles) 
Height gained : 780 m (2560 feet) 
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 In early March there was a slight lull between the two main downfalls of snow in the lakes this year. Snow was still covering the highest fells but below 2000 feet seemed fairly clear. I wanted to stay lightweight today without donning heavy winter gear so decided to explore the southern Ullswater area which seemed fairly free of snow. Parking up near the foot of the Howegrain valley I headed up onto the ridge above Winter Crag and followed this southwards towards Beda Fell.

Starting point Hause farm (top right)

Parking spot by Hause Farm

A glimpse of Ullswater from the ridge to Beda Head

The Boredale valley

 Once on the ridge the going is easy and mainly over grass with height gained gradually. From Beda Fell summit there is a fine view of the less often seen eastern face of Place Fell.

Place Fell from Beda Fell summit

 Further along ridge are the craggy regions of Bedafell Knott and then Heckbeck Head.

Eastern panorama from Bedafell Knott

Western panorama from Bedafell Knott

Fairfield and St Sunday Crag from Bedafell Knott

Angletarn Pikes from Heckbeck Head

 Angletarn pikes are 2 rocky prominences amidst an otherwise grassy landscape. A bit like the Langdale Pikes, they look more impressive in profile from their southern aspects. From the north they look fairly insignificant but the views from each mini summit are excellent.   

Panorama east from the south-east Angletarn Pike

Angle Tarn from the south-east Angletarn Pike summit

Panorama west from the north-west Angletarn Pike

The Deepdale valley with Fairfield at its head, from the north-west Angletarn Pike

Brothers Water and High Hartsop Dodd from the north-west Angletarn Pike

 It is a gentle stroll  from Angletarn Pikes down to Boredale Hause before the going gets steeper on the ascent to Place Fell.

Looking down to Boredale Hause and Place Fell from Angletarn Pikes

 After the short but steep climb up Place Fell the view opens up and you realise that the summit is still a good distance further north and the 'summit' which you have actually gained is a craggy ridge called Steel Edge. 

Panorama west from Steel edge. Place fell summit far right

Grisedale valley with Helvellyn in cloud, from Steel Edge

Patterdale from Steel Edge

St Sunday Crag from Steel Edge

 An easy path follows the wide ridge towards Place Fells summit where an impressive trig point awaits. The views all round are somewhat restricted by the summit plateau and therefore a short detour to the western flanks is rewarded by a most impressive vista over Ullswater to the Helvellyn range.

Place Fell Summit

Place Fell summit panorama east

Place Fell summit view North

Glenridding from Place Fell western summit flanks

Panorama west from Place Fell western summit flanks

The descending path northwards and the lower Boredale valley

 The path back along the ridge is a grassy stroll but I took a steeper detour eastwards at Low Moss to skirt Hollinghow Gill and then back down to the road in the Boredale valley. And so that is Wainwright numbers 70, 71 & 72 for me. Still a long way to go.

Coledale Horseshoe and Solo Wildcamp

Date : 1st & 2nd Feb 2013
Route : Coledale Horseshoe - Clockwise from Braithwaite
Wild Camp : Sail 
Wainwrights : Outerside, Causey Pike, Scar Crags, Sail, Crag Hill, Grasmoor, Hopegill Head, Grisedale Pike.
Distance : 20.2 km (12.3 miles)
Height Gained : 1510 m (4957 feet)

Kit list at the end
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 There was snow on the hills and the forecast was favourable so it was time to plan the 1st wild camp of the year. I thought the Coledale Horseshoe would be a good route as I haven't walked these fells before and it is often heralded as an ideal winter hike. Parking space secured at Braithwaite I headed off towards Stile End. The intention was to walk the horseshoe clockwise and camp somewhere around Crag Hill.

Starting point at Braithwaite

 The weather was overcast but the cloud base was well above the summits. The forecast suggested a possibility of rain later but then clearing up for a sub-zero night and clear day tomorrow.

The path to Higher Coledale

 It was easy going at first as the path skirted Stile End to reveal a fine view of Causey Pike

Causey Pike

 I wanted to tick off Outerside so bypassed Causey Pike and headed for the High Moss area. I then climbed the short path to Outerside's summit from the west. The view back over Braithwaite to Derwent water was ample reward for the short detour.

The view over Derwent Water from Outerside summit

 From the summit of Outerside clouds began rolling in from the east obscuring my forward route over the higher fells. It was time to press on and retread the path back down to High Moss and then on to Causey Pike.

Mist rolls in from the higher eastern fells

Causey Pike from Outerside summit

Outerside from the High Moss area

 It was easy going over High Moss and along a good path to the summit of Causey Pike. For a fell of such modest height the view was excellent over Derwent Water.

Panorama west from Causey Pike summit. Bassenthwaite Lake just visible far left

Panorama east from Causey Pike summit - the apex of horseshoe in cloud

 The path then followed the ridge along Scar Crags which afforded excellent views over the Rigg Beck valley towards Ard Crags.

Rigg Beck from Scar Crags

Panorama south from Scar Crags. Sail on the right

 The path up to Sail takes a pronounced zig-zag course which is just visible on the panorama above. By the time I reached the summit in was 4pm and the clouds were thickening so I decided to make camp. Sail summit is fairly flat and grassy and seemed reasonably sheltered from the modest north-westerly wind by the bulk of Crag Hill.

The Scarp 1 on Sail summit - looking towards Crag Hill

Sunset on Sail summit

 Having made camp, heated up a meal and brewed up, I then settled down to watch the sunset. While the sun dipped down behind Wandope the weather was looking threatening from the north. At about 6pm the wind picked up and it started snowing, which then turned to hail. The temp dropped to -6 (C) but I was snug in the Scarp and a winter down bag. At about 11pm the wind changed direction to a northerly and became decidedly stronger. There was no shelter for the Scarp which began to take a considerable battering. This wasn't forecast! Despite ear plugs the noise from the wind put paid to any sleep and I spent a restless night watching the tent flapping violently. One particularly strong gust in the early hours ripped out both of the corner pegs from the end facing the wind, causing the tent to collapse at my feet. I reluctantly donned a head-torch and jacket to venture outside and re-peg the corners, this time reinforced with 2 large rocks. I also added 2 extra guy lines to the hoop for further peace of mind. Once outside I was surprised by the strength of the wind and impressed by the overall stability of the Scarp despite the considerable buffeting.

 The wind finally died down by about 5am and I managed an hour or 2 of sleep. By sunrise the wind was fairly benign and the sky was clear. It looked like it was going to be a perfect winters day. A minor inconvenience was that my milk had frozen (black coffee for me). I had slept with a gas canister and Sigg bottle of water in the sleeping bag so the stove worked fine and supernoodles were soon on the go.

Sunrise from Sail summit

Scarp 1 survives the night - with additional pegging!

Sail summit panorama north showing the rest of the horseshoe and the onwards route

 By the time I broke camp the sun was up, the sky was blue and the wind was calm. It was still cold (-2 degrees C) but it promised to be great day on the high fells.     

Heading up Crag Hill with the sun on my back

Looking back down the Coledale valley from the approach to Crag Hill

 Following the minor scramble onto the expansive plateau of Crag Hill summit the views opened up and I got my first sight of Grasmoor and the Buttermere fells.  

The summit plateau of Crag Hill in the early morning

Crag Hill summit panorama north

Crag Hill summit panorama south

Looking towards Grasmoor

 The path from Crag Hill to Grasmoor is easy going and full of interest as the eyes are continually drawn westwards towards the impressive panorama of the Buttermere fells and the Scafells beyond.

Glimpses of Crummock Water and Buttermere from the path to Grasmoor

 Grasmoor summit is another flat expanse of grassy land but the views are truly breathtaking. I sat down for 20 minutes lapping up the scenery. Two fell runners were just visible on Crag Hill summit, the first people I had seen today. They were making impressive speed towards me. It was time to head on. 

Grasmoor summit panorama west

My 'view of the day' - the Scafell range from Grasmoor summit

Northwest view over Solway from Grasmoor summit

 I reluctantly left Grasmoor, skirting Dove Crags to follow a path towards Coledale Hause.

Looking down towards Coledale Hause

The next 3 fells for today - from left to right: Hopegill Head, Sand Hill & Grisedale Pike

 A well trodden path leads from Coledale Hause northwards to Sand Hill and Hopegill Head.

Sand Hill summit view north to Hopegill Head

The view back to Grasmoor from Sand Hill

 Hopegill Head is an impressive rocky summit with commanding views over 3 valleys. The air was so clear today that the Isle of Man was clearly visible on the western horizon. 

Hopegill Head summit panorama West

Hopegill Head summit panorama East

The Isle of Man visible on the horizon from Hopegill Head summit

 Just one more summit to go now. Grisedale Pike dominates the eastern view and is the next objective.

Grisedale Pike's north face in shadow - from Hopegill Head

The approach to Grisedale Pike

 At this point of the walk I passed the first of several other fell walkers. Everyone I passed was smiling and passing comment on the perfect weather and amazing views. By the time I reached Grisedale Pike summit it was only 11:00 but there were still plenty people around. Most were looking tired, having toiled up the steep eastern path but were cheerfully soaking up the impressive panorama. This was the first summit where I had had any company since leaving the car yesterday. 

Grisedale Pike summit panorama South over the Coledale valley

Grisedale Pike summit panorama North over the Hobcarton valley

Outerside and Causey Pike (yesterdays first 2 fells) from Grisedale Pike summit

View south of the distant fells from Grisedale Pike summit - far left Pike O'Stickle, Bowfell in the middle and the Scafells far right

The magnificent Eastern panorama from Grisedale Pike showing the distant Skiddaw/Blencathra Massif, and the Helvellyn range over Derwent Water

A last look back towards Grasmoor and Crag Hill before descending

Skiddaw and Blencathra from Grisedale Pike

 The path down the eastern side of Grisedale Pike is steep, rocky and felt hard going with 13kgs in the rucksack. I seemed to be the only one heading down against a torrent of people marching upwards, all clearly wanting to take full advantage of the perfect weather. I even passed 2 mountain bikers who were carrying their bikes up the steep rocky terrain.

The path down the eastern flank of Grisedale Pike and over Sleet How

Bassenthwaite Lake

 The walk back to Braithwaite felt longer than it appeared on the map but the views towards Skiddaw and then Bassenthwaite Lake were adequate company.
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Kit List

Tent : Tarptent Scarp 1 (1.36kg)
Mat : Exped Downmat UL 7LW (810g)
Sleeping Bag : Cumulus Prime 700 (1210g)
Stove : Primus Express Spider (198g)  + Gas Cart
Pans : Evernew Solo-set (250g)

Rucksack : Osprey Talon 44 (1.09kg)
Fluid : 2 x 1 litre Sigg Bottles (147g each empty) + Drinksafe systems travel tap (165g)
         : 200 mls milk, coffee
Food : Wayfayrer Tai Green Curry, Buttered Bread, Supernoodles,various sugary snacks.

Bits & Bobs : headtorch and spare batteries, Iphone + Anker 5800mHh battery, tent light,  
  victorinox knife, map & compass, basic first aid kit and Petzl e-lite, spork, various fold dry 
  bags, flint & steel, plastic trowel.
Camera : Sony DSC-HX5 & lowepro case.
Clothes : HH 'warm' base top & bottom, Sprayway all day rainpants (410g) , Rab  
  vapour-rise jacket (615g), , ME beany, Rab phantom grip gloves, sunglasses, goggles, Buff,  
  Bridgedale winter socks. Montane prism 2 jacket (423g) and Montane Superfly Jacket  
  (500g) both not used. Spare hat (lowe alpine mountain cap), spare gloves 
  (ME Mountain Mitt & Extremities tuff bags)
Boots : Meindl Softline (1180g)

Poles : Leki Makalu (544g pair) - used lots!
Ice Axe : Grivel Brenva (520g) - not used
Crampons : Grivel Monta-Rosa (800g) - not used

Loaded rucksack weight = aprox 13kgs


Closing Thoughts 


 This was a great hike in great weather. The unexpected high winds overnight were easily dealt with by the Scarp despite my initial sloppy pegging. Unfortunately I just cant sleep in high winds though. I use ear plugs but the tent noise just cuts through. Not sure what else I can do about that, perhaps sedation ;)  The rest of my kit performed well. The cumulus was warm & comfortable at -6 although I did need to keep my hat on all night. I kept the base layers & socks on so didn't use a liner. The mat is my 'luxury item'. I know its fairly heavy compared to some but it is very warm and comfortable and the extra width is welcome for a restless sleeper like me. 

Clothing wise, I am always amazed by the performance of the Rab VR. I never felt the need to add an extra layer and it breaths superbly. I simply left it on throughout the walk and never felt either hot, sweaty or cold. It is my 'go to' winter jacket. On this occasion the waterproof & insulated jacket were superfluous (except as a pillow). The Rab phantom grip gloves are also perfect for me. Having tried various types over the years I bought these having read a favorable review by Chris Townsend and I agree that the the polartec windpro material is an ideal balance between warmth, breathablility and wind resistance. I do tend to be a naturally warm handed bloke so they may not be warm enough for some. Sprayway all day rain pants may not be everyone's first choice for such a trip but they were great. My legs never felt cold or sweaty. I didn't really notice them at all, which is ideal. The Meindl Softline boots performed well as usual. I have has these for 2 years now and use them year round over rough terrain. Although they are rated B0, they are fairly stiff and I have used them many times with the flexible Grivel Monta-Rosa crampons without any hint of movement. They are very well padded and comfortable for me.

I took the drinksafe systems travel tap to save the weight of carrying more than a litre of water but the slow flow rate was frustrating. Having read some favourable reviews and comments on twitter of the sawyer filter, this might be my next investment.

Overall I could have gone lighter. The sleeping bag was perhaps excessive and indeed took up a considerable amount of rucksack space. I also have a Rab alpine 400 which would probably have been sufficient. The mat is also perhaps excessive but I'm not quite willing to give up that comfort yet. The Talon 44 was a comfortable carry and swallowed everything up well, although the tent needed to be strapped to the base.

The weather on day 2 was truly exceptional and I felt very lucky to have these majestic fells and amazing vistas all to myself for a few hours. I guess that's why we wild camp in the mountains. Its a feeling of having 'earned' the isolation and pristine views. 

That's it. Please leave any thoughts/comments/advice/suggestions and thanks for reading my inaugural blog entry.