I had always intended to finish my Wainwright quest on Haystacks. It was one of his favourite fells and his ashes are reputedly scattered by Innominate Tarn. I have looked down onto its gnarly summit plateau many times from the surrounding lofty fells but have deliberately avoided standing on its hallowed ground until today. I always thought a nice fell to accompany Haystacks in a circular walk would be Fleetwith Pike and so these 2 fells were planned as my final 2.
A video of the 2 day hike can be seen above
Having climbed Fellbarrow and Low Fell yesterday, I spent the night in the camper van, got up early and drove to Gatescarth by the south end of Buttermere. The plan was to climb Fleetwith Pike up its steep northwestern ridge.
The Steep Northwestern ridge of Fleetwith Pike
It's a good path all the way to the summit taking in some impressive crags and rocky scenery as well as some short sections of scrambling. The backwards views over the Buttermere valley get better with altitude.
The Buttermere Valley
Fleetwith Pike summit view of Haystacks with Pillar beyond
From Fleetwith Pike, a path picks its way southeast before striking one of the old slate quarry paths heading southwest past Dubs Hut Bothy, crossing Warnscale Beck and then turning westwards towards Haystacks. This is a lovely part of the walk as the path meanders through the impressive crags of Haystacks, past Blackbeck Tarn and the lovely Innominate Tarn before heading up onto the impressive summit.
Dub Hut Bothy
Blackbeck Tarn
The Buttermere Valley
Innominate Tarn with Pillar Behind
Innominate Tarn
Haystacks is certainly a popular fell and indeed it entertained a steady procession of walkers including some large groups while I was there. The summit views are magnificent in all directions and only the lack a good prospect of Buttermere is missing. And this is something easily remedied by a short walk to a rocky outcrop over the other side of the lovely un-named summit tarn. From here, the views north over the Buttermere valley are unsurpassed and certainly worthy of 30 minutes R&R.
The un-named Tarn on Haystacks summit
Mission Accomplished
Stunning Views from Haystacks
It was with some reluctance that I finally left Haystacks and headed down the well worn path back down to Buttermere. For most of the way, the whole route taken from start to finish is in view on the right side.
Magnificent Views of Fleetwith Pike from the descent path
So that was my final Wainwright, all done from Lakes level and all on my own. It ends a journey which started on Helm Crag 16 years ago. I blame 10 years of weekend kids football for the lack of timely progress but also my habit of revisiting old favourite fells by different routes rather than getting on with the matter at hand. But eventually they all got done, even if it took me longer than it took Wainwright himself to walk and then write up all 7 of his pictorial guides. But then I'm guessing he didn't have kids football to contend with.
Dates : 1st May 2025 Wainwright's : Fellbarrow (416m), Low Fell (423m) Start / Finish : Thackthwaite Distance : 5.5 Miles Height Gained : 1342 Feet Time Taken : 3 Hours
The Route : Anti-Clockwise from Godferhead
This was a 2 day trip, long planned and much anticipated. The plan was to take the camper van up to the Buttermere & Crummock Water region with the aim of climbing my last 4 Wainwright Fells. This blog post describes day 1 (Fellbarrow and Low Fell). The next blog post describes day 2 (Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks). A video of the whole 2 day hike can be seen below.
The forecast was a warm one. In fact today was supposed to be the hottest day in the UK so far this year. Thankfully the bulk of the warm weather was south of the midlands but even so, I left it late for the hike today in order to avoid getting too hot and sweaty. So I left Preston at 1pm with the intention of starting the walk at about 3pm. It's a vintage van so 60mph is about as fast I can go!
I parked the van in the lovely quiet village of Thackthwaite and then headed up an unusual path up into the fells. The path runs a straight course up to the flanks of Sourfoot Fell and is lined with Oak Trees planted at regular intervals which appear to be a few hundred years old. In years gone by this must have been an important avenue but the reasons for its existence are unclear to me. It terminates at the base of the fells where nothing of any obvious importance resides (now).
Whiteside and Grasmoor from Thackthwaite
The 'Avenue' to the fells by Galloway Farm
The path then bears right, crosses the upper reaches or Meregill Beck and then follows a dry stone wall before vearing off to approach Fellbarrow from the North. The summit is adorned with a fine trig point and has uninterupted views over the Solway Firth to Scotland.
Fellbarrow Summit View South towards Low Fell
It's then a case of following a good path in a southerly direction onto Low Fell. No such trig point here, just a pile of stones but the views are superb. From here you can see the whole of Crummock Water and the Buttermere Valley. In fact the only area of nearby interest missing from the panorama is Loweswater, something cured by a short walk onto neighbouring fell top 'Bield'.
Low Fell Summit View over Crummock Water
Bield View over Loweswater
Stunning Views from the Descent to Thackthwaite
I then headed down and back to the camper van. Overnight 'road' parking is prohibited in the Lake District but you wouldn't think so as there are so many motor homes and camper vans clearly parked up for the night along the shores of Crummock Water and Buttermere. For me, that's just taking the piss. I think if you're going to stay for a night on a public road in the Lakes in your van then at least be discrete and look for somewhere out of sight and off the beaten track. Just stay 1 night and leave the area exactly as you found it. And so that's exactly what I did.
Parked up for the Night
The following morning I moved the van to the Gatesgarth car park at the south end of Buttermere, ready for my final 2 Wainwright Fells.
