This is one of my favourite areas in Lakeland. The Great Langdale valley is delectable country and the Crinkle Crags ridge leading up to the pinnacle of Bowfell occupies prime position at its head. It had been a few years since I last did this route and at the time I rushed it due it impending bad weather and didn't really have time to savour the views. Today, however, the forecast was perfect and I had the company of my Dad, so no need to race. An Aerial 3D Fly-Through of the Route
This particular route from Stool End Farm up the Oxendale path and along Crinkle Crags to Bowfell has become increasingly popular since being featured in the Julia Bradbury 'Wainwright Walks' TV series. Our intended route, as did Julia's, also included the 'climbers traverse' path along the eastern face of Bowfell, which skirts its most impressive rock scenery. At least that was the plan. The route can be demanding for some and although my Dad managed to climb Ben Nevis, Snowdon & Scafell Pike in his 70th year last summer, he hadn't done any fell walking since. We therefore had options to bale out down the 'Band' after Crinkle Crags or to climb Bowfell via the less exposed tourist route directly from 3 Tarns.
Looking up the Oxendale valley
Crinkle Crags from the bridge over Oxendale Beck
We set off in bright sunshine at 11am along the path to Stool End Farm and then headed up the Oxendale Valley. From the new wooden bridge (rebuilt in 2005 after a storm swept the old one away) the path heads steeply up towards Red Tarn. Height is gained rapidly in this first section and backward glances reveal a constantly changing perspective of the Langdale Pikes.
The Langdale Pikes
Views over to Bowfell and Hells Gill
Views back from Brown Howe
The path gains a distinctively red tinge as Red Tarn is approached due the abundance of haematite & red sandstone in this area. Once at Red Tarn the bulk of the days steep ascent is done and the route flattens off as it approaches the first Crinkle.
Heading up the 'Red' Oxendale Path
Red Tarn
Crinkle Crags & Bowfell from Great Knott
A short diversion up to Great Knott is well worth the effort as from this vantage point the whole ridge can be seen in all its glory. From here the path is currently being improved by the 'fix the fells' team who today were busily grafting in the hot sun. Finally a short but steep section leads up to the summit of Crinkle 1.
Here, for the first time, the Scafells come into view over the Eskdale
valley. We had lunch here just off to the western side enjoying superb
views right down the length of the Great Langdale valley. Wainwright describes the walk along Crinkle Crags as "the finest ridge
mile in the Lake District" and a "fell walkers delight". It's easy to see why with steep drops down
to plunging valleys on both sides and a constantly changing terrain underfoot.
Views of the Scafells from the summit of Crinkle 1
Our lunch spot looking down the Great Langdale valley
Looking back over Great Knott, Red Tarn & Pike O'Blisco towards Windermere
Crinkles 2 & 3 from Crinkle 1
The approach to Crinkle 2 (Long Top) reveals the famous 'Bad Step' which seemingly blocks the direct route up to the summit. It is essentially a large chockstone wedged at the top of a narrow 12 foot high gulley. The solution is a 'fairly' simple climb up the rock face on the right side, after which the summit is a 1 minute 'boulder stroll' away. My Dad didn't fancy this so he took the alternative path around to the left while I cautiously scrambled up.
The approach to 'Bad Step'
Bad Step looking 'Bad'
The summit of the second Crinkle represents the true summit of Crinkle Crags but I think the best views are from Crinkle 3 which imposes more abruptly than the others into Great Langdale giving the best perspective along the valley.
Crinkle 2 summit panorama East
Crinkle 2 summit panorama West
Bowfell & and the remaining ridge walk from Crinkle 3
Great Langdale from Crinkle 3
The Scafell's from Crinkle 3
As the ridge walk continues its undulating course, Bowfell becomes more imposing with every step. A short detour to Shelter Crags (essentially the 6th Crinkle) shows it off best.
Eying up a potential wild camping spot near Crinkle 5
Bowfell Links looking magnificent from near Shelter Crags
From 3 Tarns we had a rest stop & stamina check resulting in the decision to carry on up Bowfell via the climbers traverse route. This involves skirting 'off path' eastwards across the southern flank of Bowfell until the narrow winding path is picked up. Climbers traverse is essentially a rock climbers route to access the vertical crags of Bowfell Buttress, Flat Crags & Cambridge Crags. These towering rock faces represent Bowfells best bits and are largely hidden from view to walkers climbing up from the 'Band' and the typical route from 3 Tarns. If you want to access climbers traverse from the Band then that route is described in detail here Or climbers traverse in winter is described here
The early section of climbers traverse
The winding path heading towards Bowfell Buttress
Bowfell Buttress and Easy Gulley (doesn't look easy to me!)
The traverse clings to Bowfell's steep eastern flank passing right under these
vertical walls of rock until a point is reached at the bottom centre of Cambridge Crag where a spring emerges from the rock face. It is
here that Wainwright recommends stopping for a drink as "nothing better ever came out of a barrel or a bottle". It really is very invigorating and provides just the refreshment needed before tackling the steep route upwards from here.
The water spout, showing the way up along the boulder field
From this point a steep diagonal route is evident cutting backwards (leftwards as you look at Cambridge Crag) up a 'river of boulders'. This is the way up, which once followed, quite quickly reveals the lower part of Great Slab, an aptly named huge hunk of flat rock dominating the left side of the ascent. Route choice is now to either continue the scramble up the boulder field or walk up the calf burning angular rock face of Great Slab. Having tried both, I prefer the former as the use of hands can be quite reassuring on such an exposed area.
The lower part of Great Slab
Tackling the steep ascent
The top of Great Slab is one of the best places to be in the fells. This classic view with the Langdale Pikes in the background is immortalised in Wainwright's ink drawing in book 4.
Walking with a
companion today meant I could take advantage of them as photographer
while I made my way over to pose similarly at the top.
Me looking tiny at the top of the Great Slab
From here it is a 2 minute wander over the boulder strewn summit until the top is reached. The summit panorama is outstanding as Bowfell occupies prime position at the head of 3 main valleys (Great Langdale, Eskdale & Langstrath). In fact only Great Gable, out of all the high Lakeland fells, is not fully visible. We were lucky to be up there in good weather today as usually, if there is a cloud to be seen in Cumbria, it is often perched stubbornly on Bowfell summit. For the record, its only a 30 minute climb from the water spout to the summit, but Oh! what a great 30 minutes!
Windermere peeping through the top of Great Slab
Bowfell summit view back over Crinkle Crags
The Scafells from Bowfell summit : Broad Stand looking very vertical from here!
The view north to Esk Pike
Views down the Eskdale valley
Views along Great Langdale
Bowfell summit panorama west
Bowfell summit panorama east
The obligatory summit selfie
We then headed down towards 3 Tarns and back along the Band. Exactly 2 hours later we were enjoying a well earned pint at the Old Dungeon Ghyll as the last light of day slid over the Langdale Pikes ending a fantastic day in the fells.
A last glance at one of the best views in the Lake District
Date : 27th & 28th June 2014 Route : Day 1 - Loweswater to Starling Dodd. Day 2 - Starling Dodd to Loweswater over Hen Comb Wainwrights : Burnbank Fell, Blake Fell, Gavel Fell, Great Borne, Starling Dodd, Hen Comb Distance : 12 miles (19.3km) Height gained : 3744 feet (1141 meters) Time Taken :Day 1 = 6 hours. Day 2 = 2 hours Social Hiking Link :click here
The Route : anticlockwise from the car park by Loweswater
The long summer nights have pro's and con's in the wild campers calender. Con's are the hot sticky ascents, midges and ridiculously early sunrises. Pro's however are the lighter packs, longer walks and then enjoying late sunsets sat out in warm weather (hopefully!). As my working week finishes at Friday lunch time it also means that I can be in the Lakes for 3pm and still enjoy 7 hours of walking before making camp. That was the plan for this walk. I set off from Loweswater at 3:30pm heading along the tops towards Starling Dodd. I wasn't sure how far I'd get as this was all new terrain for me.
The start of the walk : Carling Kott straight ahead
Almost as soon as the path meets Loweswater, a track lead up through the pines eventually emerging on a col between Carling Knott and Burnbank Fell. The path then skirts along the Loweswater side of Burnbank Fell. I kept walking until the the steep gradient up to the summit on my left looked a little less severe. There's no path and so it's a case of picking your way upwards through the grassy tussocks.
Burnbank Fell through a dirty camera lens
Nice spot to admire Loweswater and Grasmoor beyond
The summit of Burnbank Fell is a wide grassy expanse. There's good views over to the coast but otherwise nothing too exciting. It was then a pleasant stroll along a grassy path to Blake Fell and then Gavel Fell.
Burnbank Fell looking towards Blake Fell
Blake Fell summit shelter
Gavel Fell looking south towards Great Borne
Rain streaks over the coast
From Gavel Fell the scenery becomes progressively more interesting as the Crags of Great Borne are approached and the lovely secluded Floutern Tarn comes into view. A short deviation up onto Floutern Cob provides the best view point.
Looking towards Great Borne
Floutern Tarn from Floutern Cob
A steep path follows the wall up to the summit plateau of Great Borne. The lovely Ennerdale Water is not in view from the summit but a 2 minute amble to the western side resolves this issue superbly.
Great Borne summit looking south to Starling Dodd & Red Pike
Great Borne summit panorama south
Great Borne summit panorama north
Ennerdale Water from Great Borne
Ennerdale Water from Great Borne
It was now 8pm. There would be no problem reaching Starling Dodd before sundown and despite suggestions of an impending downpour the weather was holding up nicely. On the way up to Starling Dodd summit the sun even came out.
Heading up Starling Dodd
Starling Dodd summit looking towards Red Pike
Sun lights up Pillar
Looking over Crummock Water towards Grasmoor
About an hour off sunset from Starling Dodd
It was now time to find a place to make camp. There was still an hour before sunset so I decided to head back towards Great Borne where I'd spotted a nice flat grassy area just above Floutern Tarn.
Pitched up just above Floutern Tarn
The Trailstar's inaugural pitch
Sun Setting behind the cloud layer
Room with a view
This was my first time pitching the Trailstar in the fells and I was pleased that it went up nice and easy, thanks mainly to some expert advice from experienced trailstar users on twitter (namely @munro277 and @outdoorsMH). Overall I was really impressed with the room underneath. It was a novelty to be able to cook under this huge shelter with no windshield required. My only mistake was pitching on a slight slope (well it looked slight at the time!) which meant my mat kept slipping off the ground sheet towards the entrance. Just as well the grass was soft & dry so I abandoned the sheet, put the rucksack under the foot end of the mat and Voila!, problem solved (well, improved anyway). I took a bivvy bag with headnet but there were no biting insects so it stayed in the rucksack. Thankfully the weather stayed dry overnight and the wind was minimal. I was up at 5am to catch the sunrise. A bank of cloud was moving slowly northwards, lapping over Grasmoor. It must have been a spectacular sight from up there.
Sunrise over Grasmoor ...
... and over the Trailstar
I was packed up and away by 6am. It was a steep descent besides Red Gill over which I spied another wild camper just packing up besides Floutern Tarn. Although I didn't know it at the time, this was @hillwalker66 who had camped in a lovely spot just by the water.
Floutern Tarn under Great Borne in the morning sun
The cloud bank moves over Grasmoor summit
My route then followed the wall up to Hen Combe where the views are a little restricted as it is sandwiched between the higher fells of Mellbreak and Gavel Fell over valleys to the east and west.
Hen Comb summit panorama west
Hen Comb summit panorama east
Glimpses of Buttermere from Hen Comb
Grasmoor over Mellbreak
The way back to Loweswater from Hen Comb
Mellbreaks less often seen side
Loweswater from Little Dodd
Darling Fell and Low Fell
So another 6 Wainwright's ticked off and the Christenening of the Trailstar. Will hope to be out again for another wildcamp in a few weeks. Not sure where yet but most likely some of the northern fells. Wainwright Count = 142/214
Kit List Shelter : Mountain Laurel Designs Trailstar (570g)
Pegs : 5 x 9 inch Easton, 5 x 6 inch titanium scewers, 1 x MSR blizzard stake (doubles as a trowel) Mat : Exped Synmat UL 7LW (595g)
Bivy Bag : Mountain Laurel Designs Superlight Bivvy (200g) Sleeping Bag : Rab Alpine 400 (970g)
Pillow :Backpackinglight - Backpacking Pillow (62g) stuffed with Montane Prism 2 jacket.
Stove :High Gear Blaze titanium stove (48g) + Primus 100g Gas Cart Pans : Evernew Solo-set (pot & mug 250g)
Rucksack : Osprey Talon 44 (1.09kg) Fluid : Deuter Streamer 2lt Bladder (185g) + Sawyer Squeeze filter (84g)
Food : Fuizion Chicken Dansak, Buttered Bread, Supernoodles,various sugary snacks, coffee, cup-a-soup.
Bits & Bobs :
headtorch and spare batteries, Iphone + Anker 5800mHh battery, tent
light, victorinox knife, map & compass, basic first aid kit and
Petzl e-lite, long handles titanium spoon, various fold dry bags, flint
& steel. Camera : Panasonic LX7 & lowepro case. Clothes :
Base layer = Rohan Ultra Silver long sleeve T (95g) & leggings
(80g) (used in sleeping bag instead of a liner), Ron Hill wicking
T-Shirt, Mountain Equipment Ultratherm jacket (275g), The North Face Meridian Shorts,
Montane aero cap, ME beany, TNF 'E Tip' gloves, sunglasses,
Buff, Bridgedale socks.
Thermal = Montane prism 2 jacket (423g) - doubles as a pillow when packed into its own pocket.
Shell = ME Firefox
jacket (320g) & trousers (295g).
