Sunday, April 20, 2014

An Ennerdale Hike & Wild Camp


Date : 14th & 15th April 2014
Wainwrights : Grike, Crag Fell, Lank Rigg, Caw Fell, Haycock
Wild Camp : Caw Fell
Distance : 17.1 miles (27.5km)
Height gained : 4494 feet (1370 meters)

Social Hiking map & media : click here



The Route : Anticlockwise from the car park top left

 This was an unplanned walk. By some divine favourable alignment of the planets (or just plain good luck), I had 2 days to myself at short notice and a cracking weather forecast. A quick perusal of my Wainwright count highlighted 5 fells in the far western region which needed my attention. Further scrutiny of the area on my beloved lake district raised relief map suggested a possible route to link them all together and a final examination on the OS map sealed the deal. And so early on Monday morning I headed off to the Ennerdale valley, parked near Crag Farm House and set off along the most direct route to Grike up the steep Ben Gill path.


Ben Gill : the path ascends between the trees before zig-zagging right, then back left


Views to Ennerdale Water


Looking back to the car

 This is also the path up to Crag Fell but about 2/3 along the way a stile in the fence gives access to the grassy slopes of Grike. There is no obvious path and so it is simply a case of wandering steadily upwards over a featureless terrain of tussocks until finally emerging onto the broad summit plateau where a large pile of stones and a wind shelter indicate the highest point. Being the most westerly of the Wainwrights,  Grike benefits from largely uninterrupted views out to the Irish Sea whilst also offering tempting views of the larger fells further inland.


Grike summit views to the coast


Crag Hill from Grike


Grike summit panorama East


Grike summit panorama West

 A direct path then links Grike to Crag Fell, which from this side appears to be another featureless grassy mound but when viewed from Ennerdale Water, is an impressively steep rocky bulk dominating the southern shore of the Lake. Once on the summit, the 'craggy' part of Crag Fell becomes more apparent and then a stunning view opens up revealing the full length of Ennerdale Water with Great Borne and the High Stile ridge as the backdrop. A real jaw dropping panorama worthy of rucksack removal, a seated position and 20 minutes of quiet reflection. 

 
Ennerdale Water from Crag Fell

Great Borne

 Having quietly reflected, I reluctantly left Crag Fell with a mental note to wild camp there sometime. The next fell on the radar was Lank Rigg. From here, it seemed a long way off, and its shallow grassy mound of a profile without a rock in sight wasn't terribly inspiring.


Crag Fell summit panorama North - Lank Rigg highest fell centre

 It was indeed a long slog from Crag Fell over Whoap to Lank Rigg although the otherwise dreary walk was made considerably more interesting by the activity of the Forestry Commission. Clearly there had been a large expanse of trees (probably non-native pine) between Crag Fell and Whoap which had recently been felled, creating a scene of strange desolation. I would imagine this is part of the project to re-wild some areas of Ennerdale which is something I strongly approve of. It must have been a strange & unnatural sight to see a huge glade of mature trees in this area and although I obviously stumbled across this region in a state of transition I would hope that the area will look fully naturalised again in a few years.

 
Felling on the flanks of Whoap




Grike (left) & Crag Fell (right) showing the extent of felling across both hills

 Lank Rigg summit is apparently a place of buried treasure, there being a tradition of leaving coins under one of the cairn stones near the trig point. A quick inspection of the most appealing candidates was unrewarding so I wandered over to the 'other summit' further west and found a nice spot sheltered from the cold easterly to have lunch. I hadn't seen another person since leaving the car and had just skylarks and the occasional sheep for company.


Lank Rigg summit : Iron Crags & Caw Fell in foreground, Pillar to Haycock ridge in background


A flying saucer hovers over the Irish Sea

 My next destination was Caw Fell. The direct route was tempting but would involve traversing an unseen valley/stream on a pathless route over likely marshy ground and losing considerable height in the process. The alternative was to retread my tracks back to Whoap and then join the slowly rising ridge up to Iron Crags and then Caw Fell, which was longer but on a good path and without significant height loss. I opted for the latter.

 It was certainly a long walk but once on Iron Crags the views open up over the whole ridge from Caw Fell to Pillar. Stunning scenery, and really quite amazing that despite the popularity of fell walking in the lakes, I seemingly had this whole area to myself. 



The Pillar to Haycock ridge from Iron Crags


Pillar & Steeple in dappled sunlight


Caw Fell from Iron Crags

 From Iron Crags, it is a steady uphill stroll onto the long summit plateau of Caw Fell. At first it is not obvious where the highest point is but a few cairns and a wind shelter soon come into view westwards and so over I wandered, and then further on to another large cairn complete with antenna like ironmongery which seemed like it might be higher. This was the best spot for coastal views but looking back, the other cairn was obviously higher. I presume cairn hopping is also a familiar past-time for fellow peek baggers keen to stand aloft the true summit of any fell.  

 
The coastal view from Caw Fell


Lank Rigg from Caw Fell - and wondering whether I should have taken the direct route?


The view East from Caw Fell : Haycock centre right / Seatallan far right


 I had originally planned to camp on Haycock summit but a glance along the ridge to its seemingly rocky bulk, a downwards glance at the soft grass of Caw Fell, followed by a 'self diagnostic' of stamina and a time check computed that I should start looking for a camp spot. This decision was further reinforced by the inviting dry stone wall running along Caw Fell which would provide adequate shelter from the biting easterly wind. A wander along the wall in the direction of Haycock soon revealed a nice flat stone-free spot with views of the Scafell's. Perfect !






The tent door view of the Scafell's

 Tent pitched, tea (or 'dinner' if one is of a certain upbringing) on the boil and I settled down to watch the lengthening shadows creep up the Scafell's followed by a glorious sunset over the Irish Sea and then a full moon emerged over Scafell Pike. This is really what wild camping is all about. It's difficult to put into words but arranging the following adjectives into a meaningful sentence gives some idea, at least for me; inspiring, majestic, isolated, exposed, privileged. And then depending on the weather; tranquil, reflective, anxious, intimidating, frightening but always (for any American readers) Awesome!

A time lapse video of the moon rising / sunset can be seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7nrsUaDWcM


Moon rise over Scafell Pike











 I slept well after watching 'Crash' on the phone followed by a therapeutic amount of single malt whiskey. It never became fully dark due to the full moon but increasing light levels in the early morning indicated it was time to get up and get some breakfast on. It was a bitterly cold morning with frost on the tent so I wasted no time in packing up and getting moving so as to warm up. I had been walking for just 10 minutes when the sun rose over Scoat Fell, painting the landscape in that familiar orange glow.


Sunrise over Scoat Fell - Haycock on the right

 The walk towards Haycock is a gradual transition onto more rocky terrain. A slight diversion off the main path up onto Little Gowder Crag is well worth the effort for the views down to Ennerdale Water.    


Ennerdale Water from Little Gowder Crag


Little Gowder Crag


Scoat Fell & Steeple from Haycock


Haycock summit

 After bagging Haycock, the highest Wainwright of my planned route, it was time to head back. I had momentarily considered going on a little further to Scoat Fell & Steeple but being a little pressed for time, and having previously climbed them, I took the main path down over Tewitt Howe to the Ennerdale valley before walking the length of Ennerdale Water back to the car.



Ennerdale Water from Tewitt How


The High Stile ridge from Tewitt How


Ennerdale Water from the Lingmell plantation


Crossing the River Liza at the head of Ennerdale Water


Crag Fell


Looking back towards Pillar


The little path along the south shore


The view from the weir at the far west of Ennerdale Water

 Perhaps it was the unexpected and hastily arranged nature of this walk which made it so enjoyable but the perfect weather was also a considerable bonus. And so the Wainwright count now stands at 128 and the next planned venture back to Lakes is early May. Here's hoping my luck with the weather holds.

Kit List  


Tent : Tarptent Scarp 1 (1.36kg)  
Pegs : 6 x 6 inch Easton, 4 x 6 inch titanium V pegs, 2 x aluminium scewers, 1 x MSR blizzard stake (doubles as a trowel)
Mat : Exped Synmat UL 7LW (595g) 
Sleeping Bag : Rab Alpine 400 (970g)
Pillow : Backpackinglight - Backpacking Pillow (62g) stuffed with Montane Prism 2 jacket.  
Stove : High Gear Blaze titanium stove (48g)  + Primus 100g Gas Cart 
Pans : Evernew Solo-set (pot & mug 250g)  

Rucksack : Osprey Talon 44 (1.09kg) 

Fluid : 1 litre Sigg Bottles (147g empty) + Deuter Streamer 2lt Bladder (185g) + Sawyer Squeeze filter (84g)  

Food : Fuizion Chicken Tikka Masala, Buttered Bread, Supernoodles,various sugary snacks, coffee, cup-a-soup.

Bits & Bobs : headtorch and spare batteries, Iphone + Anker 5800mHh battery, tent light,  victorinox knife, map & compass, basic first aid kit and Petzl e-lite, long handles titanium spoon, various fold dry bags, flint & steel.
 

Camera : Panasonic LX7 & lowepro case.
 

Clothes : Base layer = Rohan Ultra Silver long sleeve T (95g) & leggings (80g) (used in sleeping bag instead of a liner), Ron Hill wicking T-Shirt, ME Astron Hooded jacket (400g), Sprayway Challenger softshell trousers, Montane aero cap, ME beany, TNF 'E Tip' gloves, sunglasses, Buff, Bridgedale socks. 
Thermal = Montane prism 2 jacket (423g) - doubles as a pillow when packed into its own pocket.
Shell = ME Firefox jacket (320g) & trousers (295g).
Spare gloves (Buffalo Mitts & Extremities tuff bags) & socks (sealskinz)
 

Boots : Solomon Quest 4D  
Poles : Black Diamond Trail Compact (488g pair)  

Loaded rucksack weight = aprox 11kgs (excluding water)
 

Kit of the Day


I don't really do reviews but I will highlight the Montane Prism 2 as a great thermal jacket. I didn't need to use it at all for day 1 but it was used extensively in the cold morning on day 2. The instant it go's on I feel warmer and more secure. It is sized to fit over a fleece or soft shell, is fully wind proof and has a great hood. Also it packs into its own pocket and forms a perfect pillow which I use at night stuffed into the 62g backpacking pillow case from backpackinglight.co.uk

Friday, March 28, 2014

High Raise et al from Grasmere

Date : 27th March 2013
Route : From Grasmere to High Raise; anticlockwise via Steel Fell & back over Tarn Crag
Wainwright's : Steel Fell, Calf Crag, High Raise (2500 feet), Sergeant Man, Tarn Crag
Distance : 12.7 miles (20.4 km)
Height Gained : 3658 feet (1115 m)
Time Taken : 7 1/2 hours
Social Hiking Map : click here

I have also done a very basic video of the summit views, more for my own amusement then anything else but the link is here if anyone wants a look http://youtu.be/Ea78l8Yo3n8


The route; Anticlockwise from Grasmere

 I am very familiar with this region of the central fells and have climbed most of them many times before but somehow Steel Fell and Tarn Crag have managed to escape my wanderings. I have often looked curiously over at them but never set foot on their summits, so this route intended to make amends. According to Wainwright the best way up (and down) Steel Fell is via the eastern ridge from Dunmail Raise and so, having parked in Grasmere, I set off at 7am along the road past Helm Crag towards the foot of Steel Fell.


A snow covered Seat Sandal  from Helm Close


Helm Crag's eastern side


Looking up the Greenburn valley

 The path up to Steel Fell is mostly grassy and easy going except for a small craggy outcrop near the top. At this point, a light sleet shower temporarily obscured the views over to Helvellyn but thankfully it soon blew over and views were clear and unobscured for the rest of the day.



The grassy route up to Steel Fell 


A panorama of the Helm Crag to Gibson Knott ridge


Looking across Dunmail Raise to the Helvellyn Fells


Looking back


Steel Fell summit view towards Thirlmere


Looking over to the Fairfield horseshoe. Sun shining down towards Stone Arthur. 


Steel Fell view eastwards


Steel Fell view of Blencathra, over Thirlmere


Nethermost & Dollywagon Pikes from Steel Fell summit

 The route along the ridge to Calf Crag is mainly an exercise in avoiding wet feet. The terrain is wet moss, peat hags and a few small tarns.



The marshy 'path' to Calf Crag (left foreground). Ullscarf over the valley ahead


The Greenburn valley


From Calf Crag; Steel Fell, Seat Sandal and Fairfield

 Calf Crag is the highest part of a long ridge from Helm Crag up to Calf Crag itself. It stands opposite Tarn Crag occupying opposing sides at the head of the Far Easedale valley.


Calf Crag summit view back to Steel Fell


Calf Crag summit looking over the valley to Tarn Crag


High Raise from Calf Crag


The Far Easedale valley from its head. Helm Crag centre.

 From Calf Crag I joined the 'coast to coast path' which comes up from the Easedale valley, traverses the head of the Whythburn valley and emerges onto Greenup Edge. My route then turned southwards to follow this broad ridge in a gradual ascent towards High Raise. At this point the smattering of snow became more widespread with occasional drifts up to shin deep. The main path was covered and the snow must have been recent as there were no footprints to follow. There was a hard crust which sometimes collapsed under foot and sometimes did not. It made for tiring but invigorating upwards progress.



Ullscarf at the head of the Whythburn valley


Looking back over Calf Crag and the ridge to Helm Crag


On Greenup Edge looking over to Dale Head & High Spy


The 'path' upwards to High Raise


Looking back northwards to Ullscarf


Low White Stones summit looking towards High Raise


Panorama west from Low White Stones

 The High Raise summit shelter made for a convenient lunch spot with views over towards Bow Fell and the Scafells providing ample distraction from the biting easterly wind.


High Raise summit panorama east


High Raise summit panorama west


High Raise view towards the Scafells


High Raise summit shelter view over the Langdale Pikes towards the Coniston Fells


Bow Fell and the Scafells from High Raise


High Raise view over Eagle Crag towards Bassenthwaite Lake in the far distance

 From the summit of High Raise it is a simple 1/2 mile stroll to Sergeant man which is nothing more than an abrupt rocky terminus before the land falls sharply down towards Stickle tarn. 

 
A Frozen tarn on the High Raise summit plateau looking towards Bow Fell


Sergeant Man with Windermere beyond


Looking over to Pavey Ark from Sergeant Man. Glimpses of Stickle Tarn.


Sergeant Man summit panorama west


Sergeant Man summit panorama east


Looking back to Sergeant Man from the downwards path

 From here on the terrain was unfamiliar to me and largely pathless on the OS map. I headed off eastwards in the direction of Tarn Crag and soon emerged at the top of a steep crag looking down onto Codale Tarn. Having never visited the tarn, or Belles Knot which overlooks its southern flank, I scrambled down for a closer look. Wainright describes Belles Knot as 'the Matterhorn of the Lake District' due to the sharp and pointy profile it presents to walkers on the path above Easedale Tarn. It must be said that it is not nearly so impressive from the other side but was worth a visit not least for the views down to to Easedale Tarn and beyond.



Looking down to Codale Tarn and Belles Knot (the pimple centre right)


Tarn Crag & Codale Tarn


Belles Knot


For comparison; Belles Knot from the other side taken March 2010 - much more 'Matterhorn like'


Belles Knot view down to Easedale Tarn


Looking back over Codale Tarn to the Crag I descended 

 Having previously thought that my upwards labouring was done & dusted for the day, this deviation to Codale Tarn and Belles Knot required a bit more 'up climbing' in order to get onto Tarn Crag. Once on the summit plateau it is not immediately clear which of the many rocky bumps is the actual summit. After visiting the main summit candidates I headed eastwards along a track which followed the main ridge downwards to eventually join Far Easedale Gill and the 'coast to coast' route back to Grasmere.    

      
Easedale Tarn from Tarn Crag


Tarn Crag summit view towards Grasmere


Looking back up to Tarn Crag from the descent track


Easedale Tarn with Blea Rigg beyond


Back down to Far Easedale Gill


Looking back towards Tarn Crag from the Easedale Road
 
 So despite the long route today only 2 new Wainwright's were added to the tally which now stands at 125. Not sure where I'm heading next but weather permitting its likely to be a wild camp somewhere in either the western or northern fells.  

I have also done a very basic video of the summit views, more for my own amusement then anything else but the link is here if anyone wants a look http://youtu.be/Ea78l8Yo3n8